My question about the replacement of the rear struts is do I absolutely need a special spring compression tool for the fiberglass spring? Can I replace the rear strut assembly without one Haynes manual says I need to compress the fiberglass leaf spring a bad you tube video on a 92 did not use the tool. In that video guy just unbolts the two screws at the top of the strut and the two at the bottom adding a jack under the spindle to align things.
One more question should I buy an electric impact for this? O can not afford pneumatic or battery right now.

Why are the struts being replaced? If memory serves it'* a serviceable unit, and you can replace just the cartridge.

That is true for the front they use replaceable cartridges there but the rear is different no coil spring per say but still an assembly and I already ordered them.

To replace a quick-strut assembly (strut cartridge inside a coil spring), you don't need a spring compressor. However, once it'* removed and if you want to replace the strut cartridge, you'll definitely need a spring compressor for safety reasons (it can kill or severely injure you if you don't use one). Note that you can rent a spring compressor (for free, but requires a deposit) at Autozone or PepBoys, etc.

Unfortunately that information does not pertain to this application, as the 95 Grand Prix does not use the MacPherson strut configuration in the rear, only in the front.

Essentially, there is a leaf spring that spans the width of the car.

There is also a special tool to compress it too if needed, but if you are careful keeping in mind that the strut is usually the limit to the suspension extension, you can usually keep risk relatively low.

So are you saying that as long as I do not let the wheel hub drop lower than where the strut is currently mounted I should be ok without the special tool?

Try and just slide it out without dropping the hub down right?

Fair warning, I haven't looked too closely at the rear suspension on the Regal, I have only done it with the C/H body, that has a coil spring mounted right next to the strut, but it'* my theory that the concept is the same. Jackstand the vehicle with the suspension hanging full extension, then jack the suspension up just enough until you take the tension off of the strut. It'* possible after looking at the youtube video (perhaps the same one you looked at) that simply fully extending the rear suspension is enough to completely decompress the spring, which would mean no explosion when the strut comes loose.

All the special tool does is simply take the load of the spring off of the suspension. It'* probably the safest way of all, but I believe if one is careful with it (assuming it'* even a concern), it can be handled relatively safely.

An even bigger question however may be how much of a fight are the bottom strut bolts going to put up?

I don't have to worry about rust here, so it'* a relative walk in the park for me.

But yes, if the strut is keeping the suspension from extending any further, and the strut is suddenly unbolted under tension, that is when bad things happen, very similar to what happens when you pull a McPherson setup apart without compressing the spring first.

Keeping the hub supported by jack seems good on paper, but you will need to decide if it will work in practice as you will be the one doing it.

I believe I understand.

So jack up rear and make sure to jack up hub or under leaf spring slightly and then unbolt top then bottom and try to take the strut out that way. If the hub drops below that natural hang once jacked up the loaded spring could slip out at great force.

The car was originally from California like me so very little rust but I may still see if I can get a competent mechanic to do the job with the struts I purchased. If I can get it done for a hundred or less I may just let someone else do it. Pricey for 4 bolts but that is what it is when using a mechanic.

It'* not so much a concern of everything exploding when the hub goes too low, it'* a concern of everything exploding if the strut is under tension from the spring and the strut is then unbolted. The jack under the hub is there to compress the spring so that the strut is no longer under tension, and can be unbolted without the threat of suddenly releasing the suspension.

If it'* a California car, it hopefully should play nice. Feel free to price out having the job done, but I imagine it will fall in to the "at that price, I'll just do it myself" category.