95 Grand Prix 3.1L Starts then dies when cold runs when warm check engine light on - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 11-09-2014, 11:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1995 View Post
Well, if it didn't have a MAF sensor, you would have experienced the poor running since day 1.

What your faced with here right now is, you need to get your car scanned for codes. I cannot stress how important it is to get those codes. We can play guessing games all day long and still not get it figured out without those codes.
I agree. I may try the dealership as I have no choice. Thank you. Alternatively I may sell it as is and get something that is clearly OBD 1 or OBD 2 avoiding 95 entirely.
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:28 AM   #12
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you look on ebay for the 9145 scanner or 9150(kit w/all the wires)
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Old 11-10-2014, 03:59 PM   #13
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you look on ebay for the 9145 scanner or 9150(kit w/all the wires)
Yes they are about 150 I just cant afford it now. I may have to keep driving with the light on. Sad reality is this car is getting expensive. It'* 125 a month for no fault Liability insurance alone here in MI.
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:14 AM   #14
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OBD Diagnostics, Inc. - OBD2 All-In-One Scan Tool w/ USB

there is this, its cheaper but its a little technical. looks like you have to get your own program and use a laptop. but could be done for $60
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:54 PM   #15
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Yeah, 1995 was a transition year between OBD I and II....with no pin in "B", there are no flash codes and the usual code readers and scan tools can't communicate with it......Even the Tech I'* needed an adapter to communicate with them.....Tech II'* didn't....
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:33 AM   #16
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Well I took it to an awesome shop a few miles away and they were able to read the trouble codes. I need to ask what type of scanner he used I was so happy he could read the codes I forgot to ask.
Anyway I had 4 codes 34,43,35,28 but get this he just moved the knock sensor wire and the check engine light went away. I drove it all day with no check engine on. The next day I started it and the check engine came back on with all the same issues. later that day I unplugged the knock sensor and check engine went off.
I plan to change the connector soon. I also want to take out the knock sensor when I change the coolant to see if there is any corrosion. I am fairly confident my real issue is the code 43. Anyway I am starting there.
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:48 AM   #17
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obd 1= ?? use a code scanner for that- i do. had mine about 3 years now. Bought it from a retired mechanic on craigs list.
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:03 PM   #18
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so a quick update... I changed the knock sensor and still had problems with the check engine and rough idle. In my frustration I started to remove the spark plug wires at the coil packs. Under 3 of the 6 posts there was significant amount of rust! I wiped it off with my finger and check engine went away. I bought some sand paper and will clean it off better tomorrow. I guess the lesson here is go back to the basics. Spark and fuel delivery. My guess is none of the sensors are faulty. To confirm this I will put back the old sensor after I clean those ignition posts. What a pain in the ***. I had 4 codes relating to 4 sensors that if I changed would not of solved my issue. So just going by the trouble code and swapping sensors is not the best way to proceed. How those 3 post got rusty while the rest were ok I will never know but I have hope I will fix my issue with a dollars worth of sand paper.
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:09 AM   #19
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Cheap or worn spark plug boots. Grease up the terminals with electrical grease. Helps with continuity and keeps water and air out.
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:43 AM   #20
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Update after cleaning the terminals I still have issues. Looking futher I noticed a leak coming from my harmonic balancer / crank pulley area. Wonder if oil is getting on the crank sensor.
Next step is to pull the balancer and check the seal. Any tips for keeping the engine from spinning while i resemble?
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