Hi I hope someone can help me. I have a 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix V6 3.1L. Recently it died on the road due to a bad fuel pump. The fuel pump was replaced using a used pump. I can hear the pump now. I know its working. It has been for about a month or so with no issues. Until recently.

I went to start my car and when I turned on the car. it turned over started and idled at 1k (it is getting colder here in MI) and then I noticed the check engine light came on and stayed on as the car idled erratically until it sputtered out.

Since then if the car is left over night or allowed to cool it will crank, start and run then the car will die if I do not maintain my foot on the gas so to speak. this happens until the engine coolant temp is about 125f deg . After it is warm the check engine light sometimes goes off sometimes stays on. Once warm starting is normal it does not die out.

I have not been able to pull any error codes from this car. I went to autozone kragen etc. The connecter is 12 pin but can not be jumped to read codes. The vehicle again is a 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix With the 3.1L V6 3100 motor. The car is a California emissions model.

If its the 12pin ALDL kind, you should be able to jump pins A B with a paperclip...

Read here...

https://www.gmforum.com/obd-i-troubl...p-test-306836/

I took a picture of the connector. It looks like it has 3 wires coming out the back. A black wire at pin M pinkish wire on pin A and a green wire on pin J. In other words there is nothing in pin B to jump to.

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First time I've seen that connector without pin B.

Actron CP9145 with GM OBD I ALDL Cable CP9127

I'd suggest the Super kit CP9150, but that is now DISCONTINUED.

Look for Actron scanner CP9145 or CP985 Elite and cable CP9127. This is the only commercially available scanner that will touch these old systems for less than $1000. Anything else, your getting into Tech1/Tech2 territory and they run about $3-$4000 a piece.

Thank you for the prompt reply. Yea that is way out of my price range. It has been a nightmare owning this car and not being able to read the codes. Is there any other way? any ideas as to what sensors to manually test with a volt meter first?

I used to have a 93 Dodge Dynasty. All you had to do was key on and key off for 3 cycles and it would spit the codes back to you through the dash light.

I am working with very limited tools here I do not have a scanner or a fuel pressure tester or a compression tester. I can see fuel squirt out the rail once I press on the Schrader valve.

You could take it to the dealer and have them put the Tech1 on it. Usual dealer diagnostic fee will apply of 1hour at dealer labor rate.

Otherwise, I don't think there is any other way.

I took the car to advance auto and they could not pull the codes either. At first he said it must be a fuse causing him not to be able to check so I checked all the fuses while I was there with my voltmeter. They were all good. Then he said what year did you say it was? I told him 95 and he said oh yea you might have to take it to the shop.
So now when I Start the car the check engine light is off after I crank start and run for a few seconds. the car runs good then the check engine light comes on and the car has some fluctuation in RPM at idle but no longer to the point where it dies.
I also noticed that I do not appear to have a MAF sensor. It is not there nor is the 3 pin connector. the air duct goes straight from the filter box to the throttle body plate. WTH? Shouldn't I have one of those? Auto zone had the part he showed me. Any ideas what I am faced with here? I am considering selling though it is a shame it is a California car with no rust on the bottom and is very very clean (engine wise).

Well, if it didn't have a MAF sensor, you would have experienced the poor running since day 1.

What your faced with here right now is, you need to get your car scanned for codes. I cannot stress how important it is to get those codes. We can play guessing games all day long and still not get it figured out without those codes.