1995 Pontiac Bonneville SE, 3.8L, Automatic, no turbo or supercharger, 106k miles

Symptoms:

- Can't get past 2k rpms while in drive

- Runs super rough while in any gear

- Tries to die when shifted from park

- Has a CEL

What I've done:

- Sparkplugs and wires just done a few thousand miles ago

- Cleaned the EGR when I did the Sparkplugs as it would shake at like 2k rpms, so when using cruise control at 75mph it would shake, as it was at 2k rpms

- Disconnected and swapped out the Throttle Position Sensor with one that I know works, no change

- Disconnected the MAF, ran worse

- Replaced fuel filter (inline)

- Replaced waterpump

- Air filter was "clean", bit dirty, needs replaced, but wasn't clogged

Things On My List:

- Fuel Pump

- Clogged Cat

- Crank Sensor?

- Timing?

- EGR valve

So previously (according to my brother who has no mechanical skills what soever) the car was running rough, lacked power, and would like to try to die when stopping, and he'd have to give it some gas. This whole time the CEL was one, you'd think something would've clicked that a big orange light was on saying "check engine" and he would've called me, or taken it to the auto parts store and gotten it read, of course not. Then the waterpump fell off, as he pulled into his driveway, he said it was making some noise then he found the pulley in the driveway, sent him a pulley diagram, "it'* the crankshaft pulley", I shat a brick, till he sent me a picture of it lol. (we live an hour apart), the whole shaft sheared off, [pics](http://imgur.com/a/ncxtu). So that'* why I replaced the pulley, after it had sat for a month or so, as I had no time in my schedule to go up and replace it. And now I'm trying to find out what in the hell is making it run like *shoot* lol.

Now the CEL is still on, but there'* absolutely no way it could make it to the auto parts store to get it read. I've posted an ad, and looked on Craigslist to have someone read the codes, offering $20, which my city is about 8miles x 12 miles, so not like it'd be more than a gallon or two of gas, and it'* $2/gal, so would be a minimum of like $15 in pocket for the guy, which I thought would've been fair. Though I believe it is OBD 1.5 which only some OBD 2 scanners can read? (Read it from some forums)

I have a 1998 Intrigue with the 3.8L that I can use to test parts, that'* where I got the TPS from. So any parts I would like to test, I could just swap, and at worst have to replace a gasket. Though when I did the TPS swap my brother started the *dang* thing and I hadn't plugged i the TPS (the hood was open!), so now the intrigue'* CEL is on! And I think you can only get them cleared by a scanner, so a trip to the LAPS is going to be done tomorrow, *dang* kids lol.

[Video of it running](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Qtn...ature=youtu.be)

Welcome to the forum!
Check to see if the OBD port is a 12 pin.
If it is, without a scanner, you can do the paper clip jumper at the ALDL connector and have the CE light flash the stored codes.
https://www.gmforum.com/obd-i-troubl...p-test-306836/
Im sure others will chime in as well.

Try to find out what code is present first.

Has the fuel pressure regulator been checked to see if it is leaking?

More than likely he has the 1.5 system.

Find a dealer to scan the codes. Otherwise, you are just going to continue with the parts cannon and we will be picking at straws all day long.

No need to do either until those codes are pulled.

1. Sadly it is the OBD 1.5

2. I can't check the code, as the car is not driveable. I have not, and do not know how to check that fuel pressure regulator to see if it is leaking or not. If this is something that would be leaking out onto the ground, no I have not seen any gas on the ground.

3. Again, I can't get the codes read as the car is not driveable, and cannot afford or know of someone to get it towed.

Check out this video, I think it is from a 98' 3.8L, but it should still help you test to see if the diaphragm is ruptured.
Around the 1:50 min mark is where you want to start watching.
Another question I have is have you had the fuel pressure tested?


As the others have said, not much we can suggest for fixes till you are able to get those codes read.

awesome, I will test that out next time! thank you!

if the crank pulley broke there is likely something wrong with the crank sensor, its behind it and reads the little fins, the plug and wires back there have to be good and in perfect position the bracket cant be bent or anything. thats what controls the timing and spark and stuff

Waterpump pulley broke, not the crank.

the wires run behind there too, if the belt bent a fin or messed up the wires that will cause issues too