OK, as I asked before, did this happen all at once? Were the door locks or windows previously working? Did both of these problems arise at the same time?

If you use your keyless entry fob, can you lock and unlock all the doors, or only the driver'* door?

Sorry i just bought the car recently since ive had it they haven't worked and the fob only works for the drivers door. I know the locks and Windows used to work not sure how long its been since they stopped

This damn system is so complicated, because it uses serial data lines to communicate with the the door modules......

I checked for power and grounds on each door module......driver and passenger door modules have their own fuse and ground......the rear door modules share the same fuse but have different grounds.....

About the only thing you can do is pull up that rear seat to get to the rear fuse block and see if the PASS MDL fuse is blown, and the RRDR MDL fuses are blown....the power window ckt breaker has to be ok, since the lf window is working....and I seriously doubt the three individual grounds for for the three inop doors are bad, at the same time....and I doubt three door modules would go bad at the same time.......I seriously doubt three window motors and three actuators can all go at the same time....

So my guess is, those three modules are "down"......now the only way a module goes down, is, if it loses power, loses ground, the serial data line has a problem, or the module is bad.......

You can check those two fuses......as I said, I doubt that three different grounds would be bad at the same time......and I doubt that three modules would be bad at the same time.....however, a bad door module can take down the serial data line too......

So if the modules are good, that leaves the serial data line....if that line has a problem then it will take down those three modules and the windows and locks for those doors will not work.....it could be an open, or a short in line # 2076 that could take them down......

There is a way to test this, but it is very time consuming.....that'* why when this system goes down, you need a shops'* Tech II scan tool......for one thing, "U" or communication code could be set, and it could lead you to a specific area......also with the Tech II you can read data from all the switches and modules, which can help to pinpoint the problem......

But without this tool, it has to be done the hard way, if you want to attempt the fix......

Here is what is involved.....first you need schematics for each door module......then you would have to remove the door panels of every door, and then partially remove the weather barrier to access each door module......then you have to disconnect the harnesses from each door module(all four)......then with the schematics, you have to check for the two power inputs and the two ground inputs to each module(not necessary for driver'* door module, BECAUSE THAT WINDOW/LOCK WORKS)......if ok, then we have to test the serial data line#2076 for an open or a short(to ground or voltage)......first you will use your voltmeter, attach it to a good ground and then probe the #2076 circuit at each harness of the door modules......it should read zero at all 4...next, you change from volt meter to ohm reader, lowest scale....with ohm meter still grounded, you should read infinite resistance......if you read zero at any of the harness connectors, you have a short....if this tests out ok, now we have to check for an open.....your meter will be still in the ohm function.....start at the DDM harness circuit 2076, attach it with one lead......with the other lead touch the 2076 circuit of each of the other door modules......you should have zero ohms when you touch each of the other three harnesses......if you get infinity for any reading, that means there is an open.......if you get infinity for all three readings, the place to check is S302, which is a soldered joint that connects the DDM(driver'* door module) to the other three modules.....unfortunately, I do not know exactly where this soldered joint is located...

Now, let'* say you got zero for all 3 readings, and all the checks have checked out, that means a module is bad......so what you will do, is reconnect one module at a time......first the DDM, because we know that is good.....next, try the right front module......now press the door lock switch on the passenger side or driver'* side.....if the rf and lf door locks lock, the PSDM is ok......if it doesn't work, this could be the bad module....disconnect it......now reconnect the LRDM.....press the driver'* door lock switch.....if the LF and LR door locks work, that module is ok....if it doesn't it is bad......disconnect it.....now attach the RRDM....press the driver'* door lock switch, if the lf and rr door locks work the module is ok.....now if one of the three modules did not work, leave it disconnected and connect the other two.....now, operate the drivers door lock switch and the three modules that are connected, there respective locks should work........now turn your ignition key on(don't have to start the vehicle), and operate the driver window switch......the modules that are connected, their windows should now work, unless of course you have the lockout switch activated.......

So as you can see, this involves quite a bit of work and testing, to isolate the problem........it involves a lot of time and know how.......so my suggestion is to bring it to any GM dealership, where a Tech II scan tool would make the job, that much simpler.......and ask the Service Manager for his best diagnostic electrical guy.....good luck.....

cannot stress how much i appreciate the in depth analysis of the problem that scanner sounds like my best option

also guys i made another thread about it but no replies yet so ill ask here too. The car is stock and im looking to increase the sound of my supercharger whine and really be able to hear it when i come down on the throttle any tips would be appreciated. Im thinkin cold air intake to start but not sure about my following move after that.

Please do NOT intermingle ongoing threads with this one. It only creates confusion. Thanks.

BTW, a Tech 2 diagnostic/programmer will cost you a few grand. That is for a REAL one. Not some cheap chinese POS. And that doesn't count the cost for yearly subscriptions for programming.

So, it boils down to spending a few grand on a device that will still bring you here asking a hundred questions, or....spend 1 hour of shop labor time to have a dealer pull ALL codes from it. Then we might be able to help.