One problem I discovered with them last night. To enter program mode on the cyberdyne gauges, you have to follow this sequence perfectly:

1. Turn headlights on (it has a sensor wire to dim when HL'* come on).
2. Turn ignition on.
3. Adjust lo and hi setpoints.
4. Turn HL'* off.

Now can you see a problem? Rather than clutter this topic, if you think you see it here, PM me, and I'll quote the winning PM here.

Edit:

Travis gave up, but got close. Think about how night and day on a Bonneville may be different with regards to the sequence above.

That pillar pod looks great! The texture came out looking totally factory.

Ressurecting this slightly dusty post with a follow-up.

The cost of performance is steep. And the farther you go, the more difficult it can get. My car is now very temperature and octane sensitive. Not quite what I would have expected considering the work I did in the last 25 pages of this topic.

I've had to go back to last year'* heavily-drilled thermostat (on the left in this pic, the one on the right came out tonight). This is an INTENSE 160. Keep in mind I have a 10% underdrive water pump pulley and a brand new water pump:


I have to keep this sucker cool to stay in the power. The good news is my radiator core looks brand new, in spite of 125,000 miles:




I can tell you that with either a cold or cool engine (below 160 degrees on the gauge) or 96 or higher octane, this car has MAD power. With both higher octane and cool temps, it'* even more thrilling.

I'll also be changing fuel injectors soon........


In a nutshell, the 93 is noticably quicker than the 95 when cold. Even more so with higher octane (both cars on 2.5 pulleys, SLE running the Zilla'* top end from last year). But once the Zilla heatsoaks, the two cars are neck and neck. This is the price of performance for me. Was it worth it? Sure. I went places I never thought the Zilla would go. And the SLE is benefiting from the work now as well.

I wonder why heat makes such a difference....?

Needing 96 octane to keep all the power? Sounds like something is being pushed too hard, or some kr is creeping in because of something..

Remember what I said about the injectors.

But I can't put in my wideband to nail it down until all this leaded fuel is out of my tank.

Not my fault. But I'm not risking an expensive sensor until I know it'* all burnt off.

Not to off topic you...

These copperish fins we see here are the radiator cooler in the endcap. Great picture.


I am also considering going back to a tstat with drilled hole.

Maybe it'* time to back the ignition timing down.

I was under the impression that leaded fuel kills both O2 sensors and cat converters...not wishing to sound like a smartmule, but is that thinking wrong?

i missed what the exhaust mod on the Zilla was...