Just wanted to add that 2 degrees at the camshaft is 4 at the crank. When advancing/retarding the cam it'* common to see crank numbers.

OK, so here'* what I got so far:

Cam: GT1 (GT2 == more lope == not wanted); although custom grind still an option (must pick Ben'* brain some more).
Lifters: Reuse originals (but maybe buy a couple new spares just in case)
Pushrods: CC 7.00, to take up the head decking (already have)
Springs: CC 105# springs/retainers (already have)
Timing set: L67 stock set, giving 4 degrees cam advance (already have)
Valveseals: ZZP vitons.
Water pump: If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Oil pump: See above.
Oil pressure kit: Yes, ZZP or Intense.
Head studs: Yes, ZZP.
Head gaskets: Needs further research...there must be a difference between FELPRO n/a and */c parts; I aim to find out what. (PS, the pricing I gave above is for a pair of HG'*)
Other: New cam bolt, crank bolt, front cover gasket, aluminum LIM gaskets

(Note: already using CC reuseable rocker bolts, and VC gaskets replaced very recently)

Depending whether this job is done as a cradle drop or an engine hoist, I may also opt for replacing the rear cover gasket (I believe I have the infamous leak), and to install the Intense anti-false knock dynamat kit (thanks for the idea, Bill).

Do you plan on going deep inside the engine like rods and pistons?

With a reground cam you could save about $150 from the cost of a new cam and remove the need for new pushrods. Just food for thought. My regrind is roughly equivalent to a GT1, with about the same duration but a bit less lift.

I have no intention of going that far, no.

Well, saving money always gets my attention...

I assume a regrind starts with a stock cam...if so, how is it possible to get increased lift (or duration, for that matter) without significantly reducing the base circle?

Reducing the base circle is how they do it... .040" was taken off the base of each lobe on my cam. We compensated by milling the heads .040" to keep the valvetrain happy. Some folks were worried about the hardness of the cam material after a regrind, but so far I've found only normal amounts of metal stuck to my magnetic drain plug. Seems to be working great, and the cam has been in the car since Thanksgiving 2005 (about 30,000-40,000 miles).

Like I said, it'* just food for thought. You may not like the idea after consideration, but it'* worth a few moments of your time. I sent mine to Delta Camshaft in Oregon or Washington (can't remember which). We'll get MyLittleBlackBird in here because he was the one in charge of sending the cam out for grinding.

I have put further consideration into this, and made some decisions:

-I will be going with a vendor cam, and not a regrind.
-I will not be decking the heads quite so dramatically. I'm scaling it back to 0.020". That means the LIM will not need decking, and I won't need the CC pushrods anymore...I should be able to stick to stock pushrods.

I'm still trying to find out what makes */c and n/a FelPro head gaskets different.

i was thinking the same for mine just take 0.020 off and maybe for the intake just put some gasket sealer insted of the big plastic ends i use to do that on my small block chev

.020" off the heads doesn't make enough difference to make a noticable difference in how the LIM bolts up. I have .010" off the heads and .010" thinner head gaskets on my GP and my lower intake bolted up with absolutely no issues using the normal lower intake gasket, no milled lower intake, etc...

Also, IMO if you are gonna mill the heads, especially on an N/A setup, you might as well mill them a lot. While .020" will help, .040" will help a lot more. Doesn't cost any more to have them milled twice as far so you might as well do it. Just my $.02 though. Plus its nice to be able to say you have over 10:1 compression. .020" is only going to bring you to ~9.75:1, .030" brings you to ~9.9:1, but .040" takes you over 10:1.

I agree with what you say; however, I have both short-term and long-term reasons for wanting to keep SCR below 10:1