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Old 11-07-2007, 05:52 PM   #1
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Default What else to do (L36) while swapping cam and heads?

Still gathering info for a cam swap for the L36...

Thinking about going with a mild cam...perhaps GT1. I will use CC 105# springs/retainers and stock keepers, valves and rockers.
I'm already planning on swapping in a brand new stock timing set (chain, gears, dampener), with new cam bolt and new crank bolt.
Of course I'm going to use a new front cover gasket, and I've decide to re-replace the aluminum LIM gaskets.
I'm also going to swap in a brand new stock water pump and gasket.

I'm going with some home-P&P'd, decked 0.040" L36 heads, and I plan to use head studs and FelPro stock head gaskets. I will be using CompCams 7.00 pushrods.

Questions:
-Head studs: Any real difference between ARP (~$100) and the ZZP studs (~$80)?
-Head gaskets: Any difference between FelPro stockers designed for */C versus N/A applications? They are different p/n'* and the */C ones cost ~$60 vs ~$35 for N/A.
-Lifters: Brand new OEM-style stock lifters (~$110 Rock Auto)? Low mileage JY lifters (~$??? ) Keep original 99k mile lifters?
-Oiling: Oil pump repair kit (~$40 Rock Auto)? Oil volume kit (~$30 zzp)? Either? Neither?
-Valveseals: ZZP vitons (~$20)? Are these any different from FelPro premiums (~$15 Rock Auto)?

Anything else I should be doing while I'm in there?
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Old 11-07-2007, 06:04 PM   #2
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Personally I would want to run a stronger timing chain with the cam and heavier springs just for peace of mind and durability. I would say stick with your original lifters or get new ones but I wouldn't buy used ones and put them in the motor.


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Old 11-07-2007, 06:12 PM   #3
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We've had two sets of bad brand-new comp-cams lifters fail. I've seen better luck with used sets. From a known good motor.
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Old 11-07-2007, 06:53 PM   #4
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Default Re: What else to do (L36) while swapping cam and heads?

Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
Questions:
-Head studs: Any real difference between ARP (~$100) and the ZZP studs (~$80)?
Unless you plan on having your heads off agian any time soon I would just use stock TTY bolts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
-Head gaskets: Any difference between FelPro stockers designed for */C versus N/A applications? They are different p/n'* and the */C ones cost ~$60 vs ~$35 for N/A.
The n/a gaskets should be more than enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
-Lifters: Brand new OEM-style stock lifters (~$110 Rock Auto)? Low mileage JY lifters (~$??? ) Keep original 99k mile lifters?
I got some low mile L32 lifters off Morad for cheap. Nice and quiet.
I've read about Comps issues for years and stayed far away from them. I guess you read about that too and thats why did didn't mention them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
-Oiling: Oil pump repair kit (~$40 Rock Auto)? Oil volume kit (~$30 zzp)? Either? Neither?
I'm not sure what the repair kit is but the volume kit isn't a bad idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
-Valveseals: ZZP vitons (~$20)? Are these any different from FelPro premiums (~$15 Rock Auto)?
For the $5 I would go Viton.
Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
Anything else I should be doing while I'm in there?
Can't think of anything else.
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
I'm going with some home-P&P'd, decked 0.040" L36 heads,

are you planning to deck the LIM to go whit the heads and do you what compression ratio that will give you





Quote:
I'm already planning on swapping in a brand new stock timing set

just stay away of the rollmaster timing set look like that chain and 105 spring don't mix well



im following this because i will be doing a few of these mod myself
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:25 PM   #6
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If you decide the water pump isn't something you have to do, leave it attached to the front cover and don't disturb the gasket.
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McGrath
Personally I would want to run a stronger timing chain with the cam and heavier springs just for peace of mind and durability. I would say stick with your original lifters or get new ones but I wouldn't buy used ones and put them in the motor.


Ed
I won't be going double roller, because I am keeping the balance shaft and have read about chain-to-cover contact issues with these.

And from what I've been reading, single roller aftermarket timing chains have been breaking with some regularity lately, supposedly because of poor sprocket-to-shaft fitment leading to lack of alignment between sprockets.

So I figure I'll just go with a new stock timing set...actually, an L67 set, since recent research indicates a 2-degree camshaft advance with that vs. stock L36 set.
And I already have it, so that'* settled :P

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
Unless you plan on having your heads off agian any time soon I would just use stock TTY bolts.
I am still kind of on the fence about this. I don't plan to be taking the heads on and off regularly; however, some say the studs give better, more even clamping force, which I've read is particularly important with decked heads. I also see studs making both piston-to-valve clearance checking and the actual head installation potentially much easier to accomplish. Any other opinions? Is there any possibility of a fitment issue with the studs under the stock exhaust manifolds?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
The n/a gaskets should be more than enough.
I'm still wondering though, what is the difference between them? Different materials / construction methods? Do */C HG'* have cylinder sealing rings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
I'm not sure what the repair kit is but the volume kit isn't a bad idea.
The repair kit is just new oil pump impellers. I have no reason to believe I have a problem with my current oil pump...it'* just one of those "hey, while you're that deep in there" things on a near-100k mile motor...on the other hand, if our oil pumps are known to be bullet-proof, might as well save a few bucks?!?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
I've read about Comps issues for years and stayed far away from them. I guess you read about that too and thats why did didn't mention them
I have heard of problems with CompCams lifters. Indeed, it seems CompCams has been having huge problems with everything lately, since switching to foreign suppliers...coincidence?

As to lifters...I now have a half-vote for "new", a half-vote for "keep originals", one vote for "get low-mile JY'*" and one vote for "do not get JY'*" I have no reason to believe I have any problems with my current lifters...but then again, I can't remember how they sounded 60k+ miles ago So should I chance re-using my current stockers since I don't think there'* anything wrong with them? Should I just pick up a couple spares, just in case one or two look bad when I pull them out (roller scoring, bad roller bearings, whatever)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
are you planning to deck the LIM to go whit the heads and do you what compression ratio that will give you
I expect a final static compression ratio increase from 9.4:1 to 10.1:1 from the 0.040" head decking and stock thickness HG'*. I am having the LIM decked 0.020".

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
If you decide the water pump isn't something you have to do, leave it attached to the front cover and don't disturb the gasket.
Is that because it'* a PIA, or is it to save a few bucks? Because I already have a new crate-motor take-off water pump (the guy I bought the timing set from threw it in), and the gasket is like $4. And like my thoughts on the oil pump, "since I'm in there..."
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:56 PM   #8
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On the oil pump... I have seen almost none fail on an LN3, L27, L67,L36, Series II L67... Usually if there is a failure its a rod bearing or a couple... And in some cases the wear is enough that the oil pump just can't keep up..

If you were producing good oil pressure before I would be tempted to leave the oil pump alone... Pull off the front cover and set it aside.. The good thing is that the Pump is already primed and will pick up the oil right away.... Unless you know you have an issue, why fix it.. Yeah I know I am not making any sense..

But being that you are making this a bit of a performer, maybe add an oil pressure kit from intense or the like to push a little more oil in the higher RPM'*

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Old 11-07-2007, 08:11 PM   #9
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Only because..why change a good pump. It'* not that hard in the car. Especially with that other thing you pm'd me about.

I heard Rollmasters were breaking..not JP'*. Although use what you have if it'* good.

I agree with Don on the oil pump. Add the high pressure kit while you are in there, but no need to change the pump.
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Old 11-07-2007, 09:18 PM   #10
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Default Re: What else to do (L36) while swapping cam and heads?

Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
Still gathering info for a cam swap for the L36...

Thinking about going with a mild cam...perhaps GT1. I will use CC 105# springs/retainers and stock keepers, valves and rockers.
I'm already planning on swapping in a brand new stock timing set (chain, gears, dampener), with new cam bolt and new crank bolt.
Of course I'm going to use a new front cover gasket, and I've decide to re-replace the aluminum LIM gaskets.
I'm also going to swap in a brand new stock water pump and gasket.

I'm going with some home-P&P'd, decked 0.040" L36 heads, and I plan to use head studs and FelPro stock head gaskets. I will be using CompCams 7.00 pushrods.
A GT1 or GT2 cam would suit you very well. I would probably go with the 90# LS6 springs or try to source some 105# springs from comps old distributor, their new distributor (as of ~2 years ago) honestly doesn't make very good springs. I've seen a lot of them be out of round and pressures seem to drop very quickly without a lot of use. A new stock timing chain and tensioner should suit you fine with this.

Unless you have an issue with your water pump I don't see a reason to replace that either. If it doesn't leak now leave it, there is no guarantee that a new one is going to last any longer. If it ain't broke, dont fix it.


Quote:
Questions:
-Head studs: Any real difference between ARP (~$100) and the ZZP studs (~$80)?
The head studs ZZP sells are ARP head studs. I would get them just for the simple fact that they torque the heads down a lot more evenly than the TTY stock bolts, and if you have to take the heads off again you don't have to buy new bolts. Take the heads off one more time and buying new stock bolts again is going to cost you as much as the studs. Plus with studs its much easier to line the heads up on the block.

Quote:
-Head gaskets: Any difference between FelPro stockers designed for */C versus N/A applications? They are different p/n'* and the */C ones cost ~$60 vs ~$35 for N/A.
Not sure why the gaskets are so much, but */C and N/A gaskets should be identical. The heads and block (not rotating assembly, but the block itself) are identical other than the holes in the heads for the injectors. The gaskets are both .062" thinkness. FWIW, not sure if you have an Autozone near you but Felpro head gaskets are $16.99 ea. at autozone here. Not sure why they would be $35+ there.

Quote:
-Lifters: Brand new OEM-style stock lifters (~$110 Rock Auto)? Low mileage JY lifters (~$??? ) Keep original 99k mile lifters?
There is no reason why you shouldn't be able to run your stock lifters. If they aren't giving you any problems right now, I don't see the reason to replace them. I still have stock 230k+ mile lifters in my GP GT and I have no issues revving to my 7250rpm rev limiter.

Quote:
-Oiling: Oil pump repair kit (~$40 Rock Auto)? Oil volume kit (~$30 zzp)? Either? Neither?
The oiling in our engines is very good. If you do anything I'd just do an oil volume kit and call it a day. No need to "repair" it or upgrade it otherwise. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Quote:
-Valveseals: ZZP vitons (~$20)? Are these any different from FelPro premiums (~$15 Rock Auto)?
I'd go with the Viton valve seals since they give you more clearance if you decide to go with a bigger cam or maybe add rockers later. Might as well for another $5 so you don't have to mess with it later, IMO.

HTH.

Shawn
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