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Old 09-02-2007, 08:44 PM   #1
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Default TPS Mod

I've been doing some thinking, searching, and studying...and I think I want to do the TPS mod. Improved throttle response sounds like something I could use; while I know the power is there, it seems like I have to push the throttle down too far to get it...even though the engine doesn't seem to be working hard. Too much pedal travel, I guess. I don't have a scan tool or a multimeter, but I can probably pick up a multimeter for $5 at Wal-Mart, unless there is a better idea?

Anyway, I read the techinfo article and the geocities link it contained, so I have a good idea how to do it. Like anything else I do to my car though, I want to be absolutely certain of what I am doing.

First: If I were to use a multimeter, I would need to expose the wires, right?

Then: In this thread: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...hlight=tps+mod , a member said: "Once you do it, you will have to tweak it every so often, when before I never had to mess with it. I like low maintenance items." Is that true, that it has to be continually tweaked?

And: In this thread: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...hlight=tps+mod , a member had problems with his idle speed. I understand that the first few startups may have problems, but he continued to have them. Someone said that he shouldn't mess with the idle screw...even though the instructions specifically say to do so. I could really use some help here...exactly what did this member do wrong? I need to know so that I don't do it myself.

Next: I want to ensure that I'm not "priming" my engine any while doing this. Messing with the throttle linkage and turning the valve to full throttle to adjust my sensor won't pump gas into the cylinders or flood my engine, will it? I heard my gas pedal "pop" when I was inspecting my engine for this procedure earlier, so I know it'* the same as if I was pumping the pedal inside the car. I just want to make sure nothing will blow up.

And finally: I read somewhere in a thread that pertained to TPS modification that disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes will reset the PCM. Will this eliminate the initial fast idle issue? If it doesn't, how long will I have to deal with the fast idle? If I go around for one drive for about 20-30 minutes will it be eliminated?

I also want to run through the procedure very quickly to make sure I will do it right:

1. Remove TPS, drill out metal inserts and then bore out holes to 1/4".
2. Reattach TPS loosely with washers, and connect multimeter/scantool.
3. Turn ignition key to on, but not start.
4. Turn linkage and TB valve to full throttle, hold there and note voltage reading on multimeter/scantool.
5. Turn sensor until reading ~4.35 volts at full throttle and then attach securely. Release throttle valve.
6. Loosen idle screw retaining nut and note the volts at idle.
7. Tighten or loosen screw until reading ~0.7 volts.
8. Tighten retaining nut.
9. Unplug battery for 30 minutes, then reconnect (if that makes any difference whatsoever). And I'm done.

Is that right? Thanks so much for the help.

Sorry for all the questions, but I really need all of these answered before I feel comfortable doing this...I'm very careful when it comes to my car(*).
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Old 09-03-2007, 12:57 PM   #2
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well i did mine last week

1 i did not drill mine only the insert out was ok to bring mine to 4.39 and .74 at idle
i did mine whit my aeroforce scan gauge and i did notice better part throttle response but at WOT it the same you wont gain any horsepower whit this but the transmission will downshift faster and fell the power come on faster
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:05 PM   #3
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Ok, you may be tricking the computer to think that you're pressing the throttle more than you are, but this is not a power mod, heck, more of a placebo mod than anything. You're giving the TPS false feedback, personally, I wouldn't recommend that. My TPS was out of adjustment for some time and I couldn't wait to get it back to its regular setting. It did nothing for performance and had the car acting quite weird when driving in the city. Not the shifting, but the engine RPMs. Do keep in mind, I am speaking of my 89 that has its shifts controlled by a TV cable and not by the TPS. You'll either hate it or love it.

For anyone else thinking of doing this minor mod. It truly isn't worth the effort IMHO. Good actual performance mods are worth so much more in value.

Oh! And, YES, you will have MAJOR issues with your RPM speed. At cold startup, on a cold morning, or in the winter, you'll be idling at around 1500+ until your PCM realizes that you're not pressing the gas. See, with the TPS set so high, the PCM thinks you're pressing the throttle, but because you're not, the MAF sensor is telling it that theres not enough air passing through for that to be the case, so automatically, the PCM tells the IAC to open the throttle a bit more so that the MAF reading matches the TPS reading.
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:30 PM   #4
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I had mine on the Zilla adjusted for a period of time, and hated how often TCC lockup would disengage from the tiniest throttle input.

This is bad for the TCC over time, as well as the fluid lifetime. Not to mention being annoying. I backed it off a bit.
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Old 09-03-2007, 10:12 PM   #5
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Well the idea of better throttle response sounded good but I think I'll just avoid the trouble and spend the $5 I was going to spend on the multimeter and run some seafoam through the gas tank instead.

Thanks for the help.
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