Here'* a picture of the PowerSlot rotors I had on my GTP;



Slots go right to the edge. Pads were AC Delco Durastop Ceramic which are made by Raybestos.

Cheers,

everyone, thank you very much for all of your hepful suggestions! I am going to try taking the front brake pads off again and sanding them and see if that makes any kind of a difference.. I hope that it does. Now that I think about it, could this be a problem? I put both pads with the squealers on the passenger side. The driver'* side has two pads without. I wasn't paying attention when I did the brakes so one side has two of them, and one side has none. I didn't really think it would since the pads appear to be the exact same thickness. I am very nervous about taking the front passenger side caliper off again though due to the cross threaded bolt. I am very nervous that it isn't going to want to go back on at all if I take it off again.

You just found your problem. Put a squealer on each, on the outside. The 'smaller' pads go to the inside of each rotor. Please have your rotors 'kissed' or turned lightly, and score your pads. I think you'll be fine after that. Don't forget to apply pad lube before re-installing.

I'm getting so frustrated with this car right now. Everything is such a bitch to work on on it!! I took both wheels off again and swapped pads. Only problem now is that neither of the Calipers will go back on! I don't know WTF is going on with this car! I have removed and replaced the calipers several times befoer but this time they're just being a bitch on both sides! If I put the pads with the squealers on the outside of the rotor, the caliper can't even slide back on. It'* all lopsided it feels like. If I put the squealers on the inside of the rotor the calipers slide right on, but one of the bolts (top on the driver'* side, and bottom on the passenger side) don't watn to screw on! The screws are so hard to turn it feels like I"m cross threading them. I just don't know what to do.. :'( I can't get the brake calipers back on.

alright, I got everything put back together finally. The pads with the squealer had to be put on the inside of the rotor (the side closest to the strut) or else the Caliper wouldn't go on correctly. I also learned that you're not supposed to take both bolts off of the caliper to remove it.. You're supposed to only remove the bottom one then rotate the caliper upward out of the way then remove the pads. after doing this, re-installing the caliper was much easier. After a test drive and a few harder stops I noticed that the brakes feel much better than they had before. Initial braking is a lot better. I think this might have been the problem all along.. Now I just need to get the brakes bled after I get my rear brake pads/rotors replaced.. no sense doing it now since I'll just need to do it again later on. I think I'll have a shop bleed the brakes for me. The wear on the rotor is now even too. Both sides are equal. It'* a great feeling to FINALLY get it working right. Thank you everyone for all of your help! Especially Willwren, I really appreciate all your help and for putting up with my nieve questions.

Just look at how badly this brake pad was worn down on one side. (this is the pad that was on the passenger side, outside of the rotor..)

Lemme just squeeze in here for a second

My slots do not go all the way to the edge, unlike the RSM and the rotors that Foghorn had on his GTP.