slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads
#22
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hmm.. that looks weird.. and the car doesn't pull to one side under any braking conditions [ie, light petal or heavy petal]? I'd pull off the calipers [wheels first of course] and check the pads, see if they look alright, and also check [with a straight edge] the rotors to make sure they are the same thickness throught.. and there is a measurement tool [can't think of the name, but it has a slider, which gives very precise measurements, they can't be more than 20$ at sears], and make sure all is well there too. and while your at it, clean it all up with some brake cleaner.. it can't hurt.
-justin
EDIT: are the rotors on the right side? The slots look like they are going in the wrong direction.. don't quote me on this.. I don't have slotted rotors by any means.. maybe someone with slotted rotors can see if they are on the correct side..
-justin
EDIT: are the rotors on the right side? The slots look like they are going in the wrong direction.. don't quote me on this.. I don't have slotted rotors by any means.. maybe someone with slotted rotors can see if they are on the correct side..
#23
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I'd be tempted to have the rotors lightly turned, then score the pads with 60-grit sandpaper and re-install.
The rotors are installed correctly. Slots that extend to the edge of the rotor need to be installed that way.
The rotors are installed correctly. Slots that extend to the edge of the rotor need to be installed that way.
#24
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ok, well I tried..
yeah, I forgot about the sanding thing.. my dad taught me that a while back.. never do quite listen to him like I suppose I should .
-justin
yeah, I forgot about the sanding thing.. my dad taught me that a while back.. never do quite listen to him like I suppose I should .
-justin
#25
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Certified Car Nut
Oh you made me use the search (which I hate) I remember this spring BadTA00 had a huge post about them and you said the same thing then too.
From the Devil'* mouth...
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ed+rotors+edge
EDIT: here'* the big one.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...t=slotted+edge
From the Devil'* mouth...
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ed+rotors+edge
Originally Posted by willwren
The rotors I'm getting are slotted, not drilled. The slots allow for extra grab on the pads, the rotors are hardened to withstand performance pads better. The slots are wider so that they don't fill up with debris from pads, but there are only 6 instead of 8, so surface area isn't a problem. The key design element is that the slots don't extend all the way to the edge of the rotor. For those with a physics or mechanical engineering background, you'll see the benefit of this. The rotors are less likely to crack, as the edge is thicker this way without slot intrusion. Baer rotors are also done this way, and I think Powerslot used to do this.
I'm not going with drilled rotors. Most cross-drilled rotors are intended for track use. The slots will give me better bite, and shed water better than stock rotors, the rotors are hardened, which goes well with my choice of pads, and they're made from precision blanks, like Baer, and unlike Powerslot.
I'm not going with drilled rotors. Most cross-drilled rotors are intended for track use. The slots will give me better bite, and shed water better than stock rotors, the rotors are hardened, which goes well with my choice of pads, and they're made from precision blanks, like Baer, and unlike Powerslot.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...t=slotted+edge
#27
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Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Jason, my experiences after running the RSM'* over time and thrashing have taught me about rotors.
Learning something instead of acting like a know-it-all in every post shows character. I don't BS people on this forum. I speak what I know, and I give the best information I know at the time.
When I posted that, I didn't know the exact manufacturing techniques RSM used to make the rotors, but I took the time to find out, then backed it up with my own experience with them.
Learning is something most mature people admit to over their entire lifetimes. I've spent alot of my own money on the phone and in parts trying to find out HOW these rotors are made, what'* best to run for pads with them, and what other options might be better. While I'm doing this, always in the back of my mind is what effect it'll have on the members here if I'm wrong. It'* more incredible pressure than you will ever comprehend. Therefore, if I'm wrong, or I learn something, I come clean immediately.
What I do on my car doesn't affect just me. It affects alot of people here. You'll never catch me lying about something for ANY reason here.
DO NOT LET THIS RANT BE A THREAD-KILLER. This is a great topic, and I'd love to see it continue without negativity.
Learning something instead of acting like a know-it-all in every post shows character. I don't BS people on this forum. I speak what I know, and I give the best information I know at the time.
When I posted that, I didn't know the exact manufacturing techniques RSM used to make the rotors, but I took the time to find out, then backed it up with my own experience with them.
Learning is something most mature people admit to over their entire lifetimes. I've spent alot of my own money on the phone and in parts trying to find out HOW these rotors are made, what'* best to run for pads with them, and what other options might be better. While I'm doing this, always in the back of my mind is what effect it'll have on the members here if I'm wrong. It'* more incredible pressure than you will ever comprehend. Therefore, if I'm wrong, or I learn something, I come clean immediately.
What I do on my car doesn't affect just me. It affects alot of people here. You'll never catch me lying about something for ANY reason here.
DO NOT LET THIS RANT BE A THREAD-KILLER. This is a great topic, and I'd love to see it continue without negativity.
#28
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As of right now I'm running Raybestos Ceramics on stock rotors due to lack of funds (yeah I'm finally starting to run out). On my 94 I still have the same Raybestos Ceramics with the RSM slotted rotors. Now this is from personal drag racing experience:
The RSM'* are far superior to any OEM/OEM style rotor I put on the 94. I went through a set of normal flat rotors on my 94 in no time from drag racing at the track. Once I switched over the the RSM slotted rotors all problems were solved. I could brake much harder, longer, and efficiently. I have some experience at the track, and braking is very important when it comes to not running off the edge of the straight line. I am getting some brake fade with my current setup on the 98 (again, Ceramics on stock rotors) and plan on trying the RSM'* on the 98. Once I do this I'll post an update on the results.
The RSM'* are far superior to any OEM/OEM style rotor I put on the 94. I went through a set of normal flat rotors on my 94 in no time from drag racing at the track. Once I switched over the the RSM slotted rotors all problems were solved. I could brake much harder, longer, and efficiently. I have some experience at the track, and braking is very important when it comes to not running off the edge of the straight line. I am getting some brake fade with my current setup on the 98 (again, Ceramics on stock rotors) and plan on trying the RSM'* on the 98. Once I do this I'll post an update on the results.
#29
Senior Member
Expert Gearhead
I'm running Rototech Cross drilled and slotted pads with Wagner Quiet Stop ceramics and the stopping power is incredible. I'm getting typical cross hatch wear on my rotors, indicative of the stone on the rotor.
There is a difference between cast in place holes and oil drilled holes, mine are oil drilled, some say that affects the structural integrity of the rotor. I suppose I am running that test now. I wont be able to say until they wear enough to justify replacement.
I would recommend ANY aftermarket rotor/pad upgrade, however, purchase what is in budget and make an educated decision. Be prepared to test a combination of different types of braking systems over the years, that way you can benefit from the experience of having different braking systems. OR, go with what you prefer.
Here is the look at my brakes (front)
There is a difference between cast in place holes and oil drilled holes, mine are oil drilled, some say that affects the structural integrity of the rotor. I suppose I am running that test now. I wont be able to say until they wear enough to justify replacement.
I would recommend ANY aftermarket rotor/pad upgrade, however, purchase what is in budget and make an educated decision. Be prepared to test a combination of different types of braking systems over the years, that way you can benefit from the experience of having different braking systems. OR, go with what you prefer.
Here is the look at my brakes (front)