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Old 03-25-2004, 08:07 AM   #1
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Default Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Ceramic Pads

Hey all,

I was thinking about getting some slotted rotors for my 97.
I found ones here that are slotted and drilled for $90 Cdn each. (I forget the name)
I remember that there was some discussion about drilled maybe being bad?
Can anyone shed some light on this, or recommend a good brandname/model to buy?

Also, any recommendations for brand name/type of ceramic pads?
I found a set ceramic pads (Hawk HPS) for $90 each.
Any thoughts?

If I'm please w/ the slotted rotors & ceramic pads I'll probably do the same upgrade to my 91. Thanks
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Old 03-25-2004, 08:58 AM   #2
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i believe that drilled rotors can get hairline cracks around the holes. but i still couldn't see how they COULD be worse than running stock "crappy" rotors.

as for ceramic pads, anything should do. raybestos quietstops seem to be the most popular at i believe are 50-55 a set. i'm running carquest ceramic pads, which i believe were made by raybestos!
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Old 03-25-2004, 09:13 AM   #3
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I know this info is elsewhere in the forum, but maybe we should have a onestop thread for all performance pointers.

Brakes-
Exhaust-
Etc...
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Old 03-25-2004, 09:16 AM   #4
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The sheer weight of our cars and the braking charateristics put us in the severe braking category. With that the drilled rotors will not hold up and cracking will develop from the heat and preassure. We require the same braking requirements as service vheicles or race applications, slotted but not drilled.
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Old 03-25-2004, 09:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacDad
The sheer weight of our cars and the braking charateristics put us in the severe braking category. With that the drilled rotors will not hold up and cracking will develop from the heat and preassure. We require the same braking requirements as service vheicles or race applications, slotted but not drilled.
Brakes(Rotors)=Slotted, not drilled.

Applicable for all year models?
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Old 03-25-2004, 09:46 AM   #6
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Well I just had some slotted installed on my Malibu last week and I am still breaking them in. I got them from RSM racing in T.O.
They even recommended to go slotted not drilled. They also have race cars to promote their products and they have slotted not drilled rotors on them.

So if a company making and selling them tells me to go slotted not drilled, that kind of tells you something.
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Old 03-25-2004, 11:54 AM   #7
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The drilled holes create high stress areas. They fracture, and seperate at a much higher frequency. Race brakes, yes they're good for this, they get new ones when they need them, and they use different manufacturing techniques.

I'll be looking into new rotors & pads soon i think, slight pulsing in the brakes, and my rotors are on their last turn right now....
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Old 03-25-2004, 12:22 PM   #8
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Merlin...where are you getting your slotted rotors from? I'm busy shopping for some

I'll back up everyone here, if your rotors have holes in em, don't even consider it. Slotted is your best bet by far. But remember whatever you do, don't install ceramic pads on stock rotors.
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Old 03-25-2004, 12:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mremer
Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacDad
The sheer weight of our cars and the braking charateristics put us in the severe braking category. With that the drilled rotors will not hold up and cracking will develop from the heat and preassure. We require the same braking requirements as service vheicles or race applications, slotted but not drilled.
Brakes(Rotors)=Slotted, not drilled.

Applicable for all year models?
Especially true on yours, bud. Your car gained a little weight in 2000. And regardless of the fact that you have rotors on the rear, they still only provide a small fraction of braking. Most of the stress is on the front. I'd slot the fronts, and leave the rear stock.

And for ALL Bonnevilles, be ANAL about your wheel lug torque. This is a huge contributor to warped rotors. I even carry a cheapie Torque wrench with 19mm socket in my trunk for this sole purpose. My expensive wrench stays at home in the case, but I've 'calibrated' the cheapie to match the expensive one.
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Old 03-25-2004, 02:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
"And for ALL Bonnevilles, be ANAL about your wheel lug torque. This is a huge contributor to warped rotors. I even carry a cheapie Torque wrench with 19mm socket in my trunk for this sole purpose. My expensive wrench stays at home in the case, but I've 'calibrated' the cheapie to match the expensive one."
My pet peeve is with mechanics, dealership or not, that just crank the lug nuts as hard as their impact will go. When I get my car back from the dealer and I know they have had the wheels off, I check them myself and reset. Usually, when I get it back, they are somewhere around 200 ft. lbs.
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