Series II INTENSE 1.9 Rocker Install - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 12-19-2004, 04:58 PM   #31
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Instead of removing the wiring just tie them back.



Pic of the front cover removed and a look at the factory rockers that are about to come off.



I noticed that the factory valve cover rubber seal is orange in colour and looks to be in perfect shape and very pliable. The new ones I purchased are black in colour.
Is there a difference in quality Should I re-install the original orange ones
Just wondering if the new ones are of inferior quality like nitrile whereas the factory'* may be silicone or viton.

Also make note of how thick those header flanges are. They are thicker than stock.
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Old 12-19-2004, 05:22 PM   #32
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This is really off topic but...
If i see one more pic of you headers, i'm gonna go take out a loan and buy a pair!!!!!!!!!
They just look so good esp in a bonnie.
Your killing me.
Either way when the summer comes, and i have 2 nickels to rub together i'm gettin a pair.
Sorry back to reality....
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Old 12-19-2004, 09:45 PM   #33
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So dbtk2 or PDad, how far do you have to move that coolant tensioner to be able to remove the rear cover?
I'm a little cautious for fear of breaking the plastic coolant elbows.
Do you have to actually remove the three 15 mm bolts that hold it to the engine or just loosen them off a 1/4" or so?
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Old 12-19-2004, 10:23 PM   #34
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I removed all 3 bolts and only applied enough pressure to clear the valve cover.
I would say it moves about 3/8" to 1/2" easily.
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Old 12-20-2004, 12:07 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacDad
I removed all 3 bolts and only applied enough pressure to clear the valve cover.
I would say it moves about 3/8" to 1/2" easily.
Yup, loosen all 3 bolts about a half inch, just far enough to clear the valve cover. Only go as far as you need to for it to clear, it might not even be a half inch.

Shawn
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Old 12-21-2004, 12:32 AM   #36
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Yup, just like PDad said. I had to remove the 3 bolts to get it to move enough to get the valve cover off.
That plastic cover is very weak and scratches easily. You have to be careful not to break any pieces of the lip near the sealing area. :o

The spring compressor is due tomorrow.

I added some red accent striping paint to the front cover and finally ditched the electrical tape.
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Old 12-21-2004, 11:36 PM   #37
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PDad, I am beginning to see your point of removing the wiring harness and fuel lines. They look to be in the way of using the spring compressor lever tool.

How do the fuel lines disconnect ??
I know how to remove the safety clips but the hoses don't pull off.



This is particularly true for the backside bank.
Very tight access with the wiring in place.



Another thing I noticed is the pushrods from INTENSE are .31" OD compared to the factory pushrods that are .34" OD.
The new rods also have a smaller hole.....for oil restricting purposes. They keep the lifters pumped up more at higher rpm.
I can only assume that the new INTENSE rods are thicker wall and stronger metal.
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Old 12-22-2004, 02:26 AM   #38
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What do you have to remove the fuel lines for? I believe PDad said he DIDN'T have to remove the fuel lines, and I know that we never had to. Your talking about on the back where the fuel rails connect right? If so, they *should* IIRC just pull right off once you remove the clips, but I could be wrong, its been a while (when we put the IC on the GTP, so like a year and a half) since the last time we pulled the fuel lines off.

Shawn
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Old 12-22-2004, 02:34 AM   #39
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Quote:
What do you have to remove the fuel lines for?
To be able to pull back the wiring harness, so I can lever the spring compressor for the rear bank spring change.
I only have to disconnect the two lines that connect to the fuel rail on top of the engine. That will allow the wiring harness to be pulled over a few more inches.
I tried pulling and even tapping with a spanner over it and they wouldn't pull off. Maybe I didn't hit hard enough but I don't want to break anything.....maybe there is a trick to it.
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Old 12-22-2004, 02:46 AM   #40
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So the spring compressor tool is hitting on the wiring harness when you try to compress the spring then? Thats kinda weird. Hmmmm.... Would pulling the whole fuel rail off help you, or are the wires going to be in the way of pulling the fuel lines out of the way like this. The fuel rails are only connected with 4 bolts (or maybe nuts?), so they come up pretty easy as long as you make sure the injectors come off with the rails, or you don't mind getting fuel everywhere. Just a suggestion. But I'm pretty sure the lines just pull right off. I know what you mean about being worried about breaking something though, I don't know what you would break on the fuel line though?

Shawn
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