Series II INTENSE 1.9 Rocker Install - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 12-18-2004, 01:19 PM   #21
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Use a little grease when putting the valve cover gaskets in, that way they won't fall out when you go to put them on. Maybe the directions recommend that, not sure.
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Old 12-18-2004, 06:12 PM   #22
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Yes, using some petroleum jelly to hold the valve cover rubber seals in place is in the instructions.

I haven't started the install yet. I had to get some new rear tires for my Firebird....might have had something to do with my lead foot .....and discovered a leaking seal, so had to pull an axle shaft out. One thing always leads to another.

Getting back to the removal of the rear Bonne valve cover. I intend to remove the alternator for better access. Sure looks like it will be as challenging as installing the rear header. Not a lot of room. How much else should come off to make the job easier
MAP, EGR sensors, fuel lines......
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Old 12-18-2004, 06:28 PM   #23
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The alternator needs to come off or at least moved to the side. As well there is water pump transition that needs to be loosed to get the rear valve cover off (passenger side below the alternator). Much like changing the rear plugs you can get most of the access you need from the passenger side.
I removed the map and maf sensors as well (brackets too), didnt have to remove the fuel lines but did undo the clips and moved to the side.
Up to you but I did the back first and saved the front for a treat. The front is a cake walk with only the plug wires and alternator cable needed to be removed.

also a bit of jelly will help with the valve locks, those buggers are hard to place in the notch with the spring compressed and greasy fingers, I found it helped to close my eyes and feel my way through. Theres not much room for an extra hand.
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Old 12-18-2004, 06:39 PM   #24
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Quote:
As well there is water pump transition that needs to be loosed to get the rear valve cover off (passenger side below the alternator)
Did you have to drain some coolant?

Quote:
didnt have to remove the fuel lines but did undo the clips and moved to the side.
Do the fuel lines simply pull straight off, after you remove the lock clips?

MAF sensor? Do you mean the EGR pump assembly?
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Old 12-18-2004, 06:52 PM   #25
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You don't have to drain any coolant as long as you don't loosen the water pump transition thing too far. Just far enough to get the valve cover off.

We've never removed anything on the fuel lines or anything. We always do the front first, especially when doing springs, that way you know you're doing it right when you get to the back and have limited space. But that doesn't matter, thats just personal preference.

The biggest piece of advice I can give you is take your time. A few lost valve locks will really make you mad. There is lots of stuff that could go wrong so don't rush...

Shawn
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Old 12-18-2004, 07:09 PM   #26
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yes it is the egr bracket and you need to remove the fuel injector harness as well, both front and back......note put injector harness back together first after the valve cover goes back on. Too hard to get access after as I found out and had to remove a few things to get back to the #6 injector.

Oh and I did not loose any coolant and drained none.
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Old 12-18-2004, 11:43 PM   #27
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Ok, so it didn't take very long to get started and remove a little weight to make room for the install.



The frontside is ready and the backside looks like it is too.



Now the only problem is how the heck do you get this massive heater hose bracket out of the way. It'* massive. Looks like you have to take the whole front of the engine off.



A little help, please.

I need a drink now.
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:28 AM   #28
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Oh I figured it out now. That bracket is simply a transition pathway for the coolant that exits it out a couple of other plastic fittings on the other side. As long as you don't disturb those, it shouldn't leak.
I had thought that it formed a sealed gasket mating to the engine front.


Have to wait now until Tuesday for my spring compressor to arrive. $16. from Napa.
And I have to buy a 24 mm socket for the harmonic balancer bolt in order to turn over the engine manually.

.....waiting patiently.....

Quote:
you need to remove the fuel injector harness as well, both front and back......note put injector harness back together first after the valve cover goes back on. Too hard to get access after as I found out and had to remove a few things to get back to the #6 injector.
I don't think that I have to remove the harnesses Everything looks like it will clear.
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:39 AM   #29
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looks like a good start


keep the pics coming
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:41 AM   #30
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Looks good so far. The alternator tube bracket, I forgot about that one.
In your 3rd pic you show the harness pulled up tight to the sc above the injectors, with one hand on the compression tool and the other putting in valve locks there was no way to hold any harness back or out of the way, thats why I unclipped the injectors.
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