Cam - your link didn't work for me.....bad gateway.

What's the best way to cherry pick the engine and trani now that the factory lifting lugs have been removed :?:

For lift points, either obtain two engine lift brackets from a grand prix or take the water pump off and use the studs from it and run them back in the head and use that as a lift point, for the front, insert a hardened stud into the head, or use a grand prix lift bracket which isn't too hard to find.

Parts/labor to put an L67 / HD trans in your car will run about $2,000 to $4,000 depending on mileage of motor and configuration of modifications done to it before it goes in such as an aftermarket camshaft and valve springs, heads, etc. :) Our labor charge is $800 for swap vehicles and it is completed in one day.

http://www.l67swap.com/howtos2.htm

That's a direct link to the document, it came up for me.... here is the text: **** Sorry if it isn't formatted real well, scope it at the site****

Introduction - 97+ Grand Prix
OF NOTE: Swapping the engines on a 97' year car is harder to do and I do not have expertise in this area nor will I comment on it. Many things need to be changed in addition to the motor. If you have this old of a car I would suggest trading it in.

Ok here we go.

Depending on what you are going to be doing *modifying the engine before it goes in or changing the transmission as well* this list may vary.



thank you BoogieQ for this information




The Parts you will need:
98' - 01' L67 (02's have some minor changes and is not adviseable so I'm told)
98' - 01' 4T65E-HD transmission
Passenger side GTP axle *the length is different due to the DIFF casing*
GTP PCM of same year of car (Perfered DHP for performance shift)
FEMALE GT harness connector for MAP to MALE GTP plug connector (from Caspers Electronics - talk to Justin @ (847) 247-0484
MALE harness plug for Boost Bypass Valve with 3 feet of wire for 13v+ and 3 feet with PCM pin on end that will connect to pin 77 on the CLEAR connector for the PCM from Caspers Electronics - talk to Justin @ (847) 247-0484 ~$30 for both connectors
1 Throttle Body Gasket *easier to pull the Engine/Trans without it on + can clean it.
2 Exhaust manifold gaskets ( Might as well replace them while your there )
5 quarts of oil (10 if installing a camshaft)
2 Gallons of coolant (I recomend doing a flush of the dexcool and running regular green coolant)
12 quarts of transmission fluid (DEXRON III)
20 pack of paper towels
Oil Dry
4 or so Pan Catch Bins for fluids
Supercharger Belt *usually doesn't come with the motor* Score a gatorback from PFYC.COM
1.5-2 ton Engine Hoist. Found at Fleet Farm, Liquidators, Home Depot (may rent one out)
Blankets ( To lay over the fenders )
Zipties to hold calipers to the springs when pulling axles




Tools you must have
36mm Impact Socket for Axle nuts ( found ours at Fleet Farm for $3.99 regular socket, worked fine )
18mm 15mm 14mm deep+regular well sockets
18mm 15mm 14mm open end wrenches
Up to 100ft. lb. torque wrench
Solder gun for harness modifications
Misc sockets/wrenches/drives
One bigass Crow (Crowbar )
Hammer
2-4 Jack Stands
Large Duty Jack that can raise the car ~2 feet off the ground



Phase 1 - Engine Removal
This is what I have in my head right now, I may be missing a few small details but for right now this is pretty close. Most people have most of the tools needed for it already along with jack and jack stands.

INSTALL DAY

Good morning Ladies and Gentleman.. ready to start your swap? Well nail a few lines and lets go!

NOTE: I assume you know your way around a car at least and can figure out how things come appart, if I have to give exact bolt locations and sizes then maybe you shouldn't be doing this!!!

Part 1: pull the hood.
Not hard to do, open it up and get one person on each side. Remove the C clips from the lift supports where it contacts the hood. Then, undo the two bolts on each side while holding the hood. Once done, pull both supports off the nub and lift the hood off.

Part 2: Coolant drain
Go to the auto store (or Fleet Farm) and score a coolant flush kit. You can splice it in on the heater hoses that run into the bracket below the Alternator. Then undo the plug for the radiator on the lower right side of it. Let the coolant drain out. Hook a hose from the house up to the flush kit... let it run with the car running and drain her out.

Part 3: Disconnecting everything
I like to take a sharpie marker and when I pull a plug, write on the male end of the plug what it was. Like MAF, MAP, TPS, etc. Most plugs can only go in the original spot they were in and lay near it's connection so it isn't that hard.

You will need to pull the fuel lines too. Some fuel will come out so have a papertowel handy. Pinch the clips and pull the lines off, not to hard.

Disconnect:



Throttle linkage
TB connectors
MAP/EVAP connectors
Injectors
Plug wires
Brake Booster line
Vac Lines
Alternator connections
Coil pack connector
PCM connector
Down the back of the motor are some sensors, one is the Oil Pressure sensor
Extension for a Knock Sensor
VSS sensor on back of Differential housing
Rear O2 sensor from Ubend and snake the connection back into the engine bay
There are two connectors near the crank pully, one on each side at the top.
Rear 02 sensor on the manifold
Front Knock Sensor
Positive and negative lines to the starter
Grounds for starter and transmission on front of transmission housing
Main transmission connector on top middle of trans
Undo the two bolts holding the shifting linkage line to the transmission and pop the linkage off the nub on the shift control lever
3 more connectors remain for the transmission where the shifting lever is.
remove the two coolant hoses from the block


Part 4: Removing parts



You need to remove the Alternator.
Power steering pump, there are holes in the pully, you have to go through these holes with a deepwell to reach the two bolts that hold it to the block, kinda a pain
remove the tensioner pully, and pull the coilpack/engine mount bracket off.
remove the A/C pump, two bolts in the back and 4 in front
remove the front manifold, crossover, rear manifold and disconnect it from the downpipe
pull out the coolant overflow bottle
you can leave the starter on or take it off, it may get in the way, it's two bolts so I pull it.
undo the two transmission lines and let them drain.
drain the motoroil
pull the transmission dipstick
remove the TB *makes it easier on the pull*


Part 5: Axles/breaks/motormounts
Gettin there!



remove the tire, use your 36mm socket to pull the axle nuts
remove the break caliper and ziptie it to the spring
remove two bolts holding strut to the wheel assembly
remove the driveshaft out of the hub section using some motivation
Now, to get the axle to come out of the transmission, DO NOT REPEATEDLY JUST YANK ON IT

Props to Ed Morad for this one, get a Crow out and position it behind the axle near
the transmission housing to give you some pry force from the trans, then, using a hammer or smaller crow, tap on the housing of the CV joint on the axle, keep doing this while applying a pry pressure to the axle till she just slips on out. Repeat this above process for the other side.

Each side has a motor mount held on by two bolts. On the passenger side go under the car and there are two nuts holding the studs for the lower motor mount to the cradle. Remove those nuts. On the driver side, remove the plastic splash guard in the wheel well and remove the two nuts for the transmission mount.

Part 6: Pull the mofo

GO over the engine bay again, make sure your harness is fully out of the way and that nothing is still connected up. Besure you put your engine lift brackets back on after taking off the manifolds!!!!!!!!
Hook up the chains for your cherry picker to the engine, begin to jack the mofo up. The passenger side will lift first, the engine has a tendency to stay on the transmission mount studs on the driver side, after you have it lifting a bit and it's tilting, go over and coax it off of the transmission studs, it will let go. Slowly lift up being cautious. Watch thebreak booster and most importantly the master cylinder.. the transmission casing will come close to these. It will also get hung up on the A/C lines on the Driverside, help it past them. Having two people guide the engine while one jacks is ideal.

Continue your process until it clears all obsticles and begin raising it above the car till you can scootch it out of there.

Not to hard

Since you most likely purchased an HD trans as well, you will need to mate it up to the new motor. This should be fairly straight forward how to do this but incase it is not, here is how. You want to mount the torque converter to the flex plate using the three bolts that go through it into the three mount points for it. Slide the tranny into the torque converter with the input shaft and keep working it till it's flush with the block. Screw in the 6 mounting bolts that hold it to the block and attach the secondary transmission to block mount by the differential housing. Good to go.

Now, hopefully you have everything done to your L67 like cam and such that you wanted to do so your ready to just lower the L36, remove the chains, hook them to the L67, pump, scootch, and begin to lower it in. Using the same caution as before, let her go down very very slowly, watch the master cylinder and A/C lines. Be sure the TB is off the L67, it helps clearance. Once it is getting close to landing on the mounts, you will need to have someone push the engine from the passengersize while someone in the driverside wheel well guides it onto the transmission mount studs. Once it goes on, continue lowering and go real slow to make sure the Passenger side mount studs line up with the cradle holes, once they do, let it down all the way and have a beer.




Phase 2


Begin the process in reverse now.

Put the nuts on the motor mounts and begin to put everything back on the car. I suggest buttoning up the axles/breaks/struts right away and get it done. Put the Powersteering and A/C pumps back on, exhaust, wiring, trans lines, starter wires, pcm, etc.

Connect up your fuel lines, coolant lines, overflow bottle, put the TB back on and hook up the linkage, shifting linkage, 3 sensors by shift lever on trans. Make sure you have everything buttoned up, belts, connectors, vac lines etc. You should have taken note where it all went either using paper or masking tape on the connectors to know what is what.

Part 7: BBV and MAP sensors
To wire up the Boost Bypass Valve, find the pink wire in the Coil Pack connector, this is the wire you have to splice into, not cut. Follow it up the harness a bit it will get closer to the BBV and spice into it there with the blue whire from your BBV connector. Then run the black wire with the PCM pin to the clear connector on the PCM pin 77.

For the MAP, simply plug the GT male end into the GT femail on your extension, the put the male end into the GTP map sensor on the underside of the back braket by the EGR.

Part 8: fill the fluids, fire it up

You will most likely need about 2 to 3 quarts of trans fluid to replenish it. Put this in, then check it later after it's on flat ground and running for a bit.

Dump in your 4.5 quarts of engine oil and replace the filter

Fill up your coolant system.. should take about 2 gallons. Don't forget to have that plug put back in on the radiator first!! Use discression. After it runs for a while, let it cool and check the level.

Hook up the battery and fire it up, see whatcha got! Provided you took your time and made sure everything was right, you should be golden.

**** I may have forgotten a few things on this writeup, as I remember them I will add them, but this is the bulk of it.. a bit of thinking on your part will find *if anything* what I missed and be able to fix it or figure out how to take it appart/put it back on. ****

you could do it in one day if you knew what you were doing, I bet it would take most of us the good part of a weekend to do.

How much does a L36 and trans go for?