That is a pretty good article. Here is some more information for you (again, not to sound mean, just presenting information).

If the synthetic oil didn't burn off during the combustion process (temps well in excess of 500*F) then there would be alot more of it in the exhaust on the valves and clogging the catalytic converter. The flash point for Mobil 1 10w30 is 470*F (Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Fact Sheet). Every reference that I can find makes the point that a higher flash point is desired for pretty much any application. As a comparison Mobil Drive Clean 10w30 has a flash point of 392*F(Mobil Drive Clean Fact Sheet). The flash point numbers were comparing ASTM D 92 method of determining flash points. A difference of only ~80*F and not a large enough difference to cause the problems you are associating with synthetic oils.

The benefit of synthetic oils is even more important when living in a colder climate (I'm in NY where we get some pretty damn cold winters). The pumpability limit of Drive Clean 10w30 is -25*C while it is -45*C for M1 synthetic. Now do you need that kind of protection, probably not. But I'd rather err on the safe side.

The reason why you can not get a bucket of oil to burn is simply because you are putting way to focused of a flame to it. By putting a torch to it, you are simply vaporizing the surrounding oil without really heating up the bulk. If you were to put that same bucket onto a hot plate (or stove) and heat it up uniformally then put a flame to it, you would quickly have a blazing fire on your hands.

I'm not trying to make enemies either, but rather to make sure that the information made available to the inquiring minds is based upon fact and not hearsay.

GREAT discussion here !! -and very civil too !! -GOOD JOB, everyone

-and a good bit of research too, I'd say.

Here is a tiny tidbit: I think you will find that what started the whole Corvette/Mobil 1 deal was very simply this: Engine Oil Temperature. The design/application was resulting in oil temperatures that were getting uncomfortably high, and for some reason (-I don't remember just now) the engineering folks didn't (or couldn't?) go the oil cooler route, and chose to go with synthetic oil instead, which dropped the oil temps back down to acceptable levels. -check it out.

So, as I see it, GM essentially HAD to recommend synthetic for the 'vette.
As for the 3800, you can look at it this way: GM has no reason to recommend the synthetic. Think about it. (besides, there would be absolutely no cost/benefit reasons for GM to recommend it for applications that already will run a couple hundred thousand miles when properly serviced)

But, you can bet your "dog gone booties" I'll be using synthetic in EVERY 4-stroke motor I will ever own. (-and have, for at least 20 years)

Also, for me personally, the "pumpability" factor is a very important factor up here in our cold winters.

Say, "ejecto" You & I are certainly on the same page on this topic. I think you said it very well

GOOD discussion EVERYONE --facts emerging,,,,,, myths fading,,,,,,

all corvettes sense 1988 came with synthetic oil ,my 1989 IROC 5.7
came new with synthetic oil according to MOTOR TREND.
i also use nothing but MOBIL 1 in all my cars.
1989 iroc---117500 miles
1998 honda shadow 1100 a.c.e. tourer--17200 miles
1999 ford ranger---67400 miles
2000 SSEI--- 89500 miles
none of my cars use oil between oil changes
the honda does but alot of them do, v twin i guess.
ROD

Some things to keep in mind,

The LS1 used in the C5 is an aluminum Gen III v8 engine, and it'* broken in from the factory. It comes with Mobil1 from Chevrolet, it'* designed to use it, in the way the metals exand and contract during heat cycles, and it'* designed to use such a low friction oil as well. Premium Engine, premium Oil.

The 3800 is an iron block and head engine. It expands differently, and it'* in lower cost cars then an LS1, they generally have higher milage on them then LS1'* and are made for durability, not necessarily top performance. Now Synthetic will still benefit you plenty, it will clean, lower friction, and not burn as easy. I too have noticed much faster reving from it, and it runs very smooth now, and starats better in the cold.

EDIT: why are you running 10w40!??!

my 89 IROC has an iron block and head and it came from GM
with synthetic oil according to MOTOR TREND.
ROD

the reason oil doesnt burn is the same reason that gas itself doesnt burn. Its the VAPORS that burn. If you had a puddle of gas that was ventiliated you could throw matches at it all day and it wouldnt light. Oil is a larger molecule (I think, or something) so it doesnt light as easily. If you dont believe me ask a welder if they like to use blowtorches to cut oil barrels.

A torch is at a couple thousand degrees isnt it?

I would NOT suggest trying to put a torch to a barrel of oil or anything close to it.