What temp stat are you using? And what temp are you usually at?

A 2.2" pulley creates a ton of underhood heat. So 1.) try cooling down the engine bay 2.) Create a good CAI, if you do not have skill to create a good CAI go FWI. IAT temps on a supercharged car are very important.

Heat has always been the enemy of the S1 L67. That'* why I've spent so much time battling it. My dual ram air, fan override, drilled 180 stat, extra trans cooler.....they all help each other keep the temps down. Before porting the EM'*, I was getting 10° of KR on a 100°+ day with the 2.2" pulley, and an almost identical setup to yours, except for my cooling mods. Nearly 20% porting on each of the outlets should be sufficient to kill the remainder of my KR.

Go after the heat and port those EM'*. I don't see anything glaring as far as your plug fouling goes, other than perhaps low spark voltage?

.......Ok Im sick of this...it must be because im to new here but what the hell is "KR"...Ive seen this term im many posts but still can figure it out...im sure its probably one of those thing that ill laugh at myself for not figuring out on my own but plz help!

KR is knock retard. Your engine has noise listeners called knock sensors that listen for detonation in the cyilinders (premature fireing of the fuel load due to hot spots in the cylinder before the spark plug ignites it). Your car has an intelligent computer that will pull timing (and thus performance) until the knock level reaches 0. Once at 0 it will slowly give back timing based on the knock retard decay rate (usually pretty long like 8 seconds per 1 degree timing). Knock can lead to damaged or chunked pistons and grenaded motors as the computer can only account for so much.

By the way you will never hear detonation unless it is extremely severe (on older cars this was called pinging) as the KR system detects it long before its audible to you.

wow that was more complicated them i tought it would be. thanks for the info...

man i like the way people around here know so much and are willing to spend the time telling you what they know

You might want to chenk the resestance of your wires and make sure none of them are bad and even try running some injector cleaner in your next tank to see if and injector or 2 is clogged any. As for the temp you can try running some heat shielding arround the CAI pipe on the engines side of the shield. Some where here I remember some one cutting out part of the metal shielding behind the headlight where the stock air box pulled air from to get cooler air constantly in.

Did you gap you're plugs @ .55-.53?

Another update:

Relocated the IAT (new sensor) inside the heat shield. I mounted it directly in the flow from the ram air feed. IAT readings are much lower at idle, around 100-110, and quickly drop to 1 or 2 degrees of ambient temps (around 80 yesterday )with normal cruising.

Funny thing, with stock plugs and stock pulley, I can still pull about 3-4 degrees of KR at WOT and it was only 80 degrees yesterday. I am guessing that this is normal?? As soon as I have my JETchip back, I will be port matching the EM'* (5 family b'days this weekend so nothing else is gonna happen). I want to get rid of the KR with the stock pulley before I go back to the 2.2, so it'* a step at a time anyway.

I will be driving about 800 miles this week, so I should get a good feel for how the adjusted intake is working.

I am also thinking some additional TB sheilding will help. Will the TB shields sold for the GP bolt right up to a SI L67? Some additional ducted cooling to that area will probably help as well.

Plug gap? Stock AC Delco'* are at .60, TR55'* were gapped at .55

Injectors? Just replaced with newly reman units from SeriesOnePerformance (BTW Great Customer Service!!)

First of all, a GP TB heatshield will not bolt up. You'll have to modify. I have one that I had to cut the bolt tabs off of, then used sheet metal screws to attach it to the crossover pipe stock heatshield. Don't count on that doing much, but it is a help.

3-4 degrees of KR is way too much for those conditions, especially on a stock pulley. You have a problem. Start looking for broken motor mounts causing false KR, and consider changing your knock sensor.

Oh FUN!!!!!

Thanks for the heads up. Maybe I'll get home early this week and start hunting under the hood.