My 2.2" won't perform!!! - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 07-11-2005, 04:03 PM   #1
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Default My 2.2" won't perform!!!

Pulley that is!!

With the 2.2" installed, I suffer from intense KR, counts go up like mad and sometimes pulling 20 degrees of retard. I put the stock pulley back on and drove it 350 miles this morning and she ran great. The CAI is boxed off but the IAT still showed a temp of 130 during 85 degree heat. Is this my problem or should I be looking at more. (Still running stock internals, cam, spring, etc and stock TB). I also threw some TR6 plugs in which made no difference. FP is about 40 at idle and increases slightly under load. I want to suspect a stretched timing chain, but am not experienced enough to make that determination (have no fear of ripping it apart and putting it back together correctly, just hate to do the work with no benefit nor am I sure that a stretched chain will cause KR).

I would really like to get the 2.2" back on, but there is so much KR it'* next to undrivable. I was having an issue with false KR but the PEMS took care of that (stress cracks in the old exhaust manifolds). Just not sure where to turn now. Is there more to troubleshoot for this or should I consider water injection, giant blocks of ice under the hood, or moving to Antarctica?

HELP! Anybody have some advice?
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Old 07-11-2005, 04:31 PM   #2
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Just the smallest until someone with experience on your year can get here. What octane of gas are you trying to burn?
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Old 07-11-2005, 04:35 PM   #3
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I think the intake temp could be it. With the smaller pulley, you are also making more heat.. and your induction temps are already very high. So it just adds up real quick. Do you have any pictures of your CAI setup?


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Old 07-11-2005, 05:27 PM   #4
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From a wealth of experience with nearly the exact same setup as you, I'd do this:

1. Ram-feed that airbox from underneath. Either the way I did it, or the way 2000SilverBullet did it. Anything you can do to get a constant supply of air into the box to displace engine bay heat and prevent the filter from demanding air from anywhere hot.

2. Remove your exhaust manifolds. Have them welded around the outside of the flange like I did (search for 'holy exhaust cracks batman', search for all terms). Then port the inside OEM weld. You can gain 15-20% better flow, and this is the biggest restriction in the exhaust. Exhaust restrictions are a direct cause of KR.

3. Consider a ram-air cooling feed for the supercharger as well. Anything you can do to keep the air charge cool, and get the exhaust gasses out more quickly.

4. Make sure your EGR is working well. Remove it and clean it, then lightly re-oil it. EGR valves keep combustion temps down.
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Old 07-11-2005, 06:52 PM   #5
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What octane of gas are you trying to burn? 93

Do you have any pictures of your CAI setup? No, and apparently it isn;t as airtight as I thought!

Bill, what did you use for those scoops? How did 2000SilverBullet do it (a thread with pics)?

The Ex Mani'* are gonna upset me a bit as I just had them sent away for welding, ceramic coating inside and out and powder coating. But I can reweld them and do a little grinding if you think it is that significant (@#$%^^).

I think I can get all of that done except for the manifolds this weekend, if I can find something for the scoops.
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Old 07-11-2005, 08:11 PM   #6
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My scoops are homemade, modified exhaust shrouds (the exhaust tips in your rear bumper). 2000SilverBullet just hid a rigid piece of 6" ducting elbow in one of the front grill (lower) openings, tied it in place, and ran flex dryer duct up to his airbox. Home Depot parts probably ran him $10.

Mine was totally custom and cost a bit more, but makes for a good clean install that really works.


http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=16005

That link should answer a few questions for you.

One other thing to consider is that you may have a clogged catalytic converter. Running high boost and high temps?
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Old 08-25-2005, 02:48 PM   #7
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Partial update.

I made a scoop from a dyer vent and dryer hose mounted in the lower grill opening and ported directly in the air box. Did this about 2 weeks ago. Seems to run better, but IAT readings are still high (around 130). Last week when driving home over the mountains, she picked up a slight miss and then became worse over a few days. Had to go back out of town and no time to play, so I dropped her off at the local shop and told them to have at it. End result, plugs fouled (NGK TR55'* with a few thousand miles), replaced with stock AC Delcos. Plugs were dry carbon fouled.

Question: Even though IAT still shows high temps (still located outside the heat shield perhaps suffering form ambient temps), with the ducted air coming into the intake, could my combustion temps have been lowered enough to induce the dry fouling?

PS stock pulley is still on the car.
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Old 08-25-2005, 03:34 PM   #8
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Griff...I was rereading this whole post. Not sure if we all picked up on the IAT outside the heat shield area the first pass through.

Extend the wires and get that IAT inside the shield to read the correct temps. Things can't work right unless the ECM knows what temp air is supplied.

Try running 93 octane if you are not. KR will occur more with lesser grades of fuel.
The catalytic was questioned at one point, were you able to check it for flow or at least rattle?
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Old 08-25-2005, 03:50 PM   #9
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Intake temps and exhaust restrictions. You must solve both.

I'm beginning to believe the 2.2" pulley on a 92 or 93 is too small without some supporting intake and exhaust work. And I mean exhaust manifold porting. And behind that, ALL exhaust components must be performance in nature. Cat and muffler alike.
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Old 08-25-2005, 04:42 PM   #10
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I think I might be confusing the issue.

First to clarify:

Always run 93 octane.

High Flow CAT is installed and less than a year old, along with Magnaflow muffler and just recently added resonator. CAT checked out good when the resonator was installed (about 6 weeks ago).

IAT sensor is installed in the hole on the back of the K&N but is not shielded by the heat shield (very similar to willwren'*). When I move it into the box, just put it anywhere, or does it need to be in direct airflow?

I have removed the 2.2 pulley until I can get things right for it. With the stock pulley installed I have rare occurances of KR, but there are driveability issues that I suspect due to a JET chip issues (another thread).

I have been running NGK plugs for about 2 years. Bouncing back and forth between TR6 and 55'*. The 55'* that were in the car fouled in a very short period of time (still running the stock pulley). Stock AC Delcos are in now. Before I go any further, I am trying to understand why the plugs fouled. I plan on moving the IAT inside the air box, maybe tomorrow, but I wanna be sure that I am not causing another issue, the whole plug fouling thing has me bothered. I was wondering about it earlier today, and the only thing that I can think of is even though IAT readings are still high, if the intake temps truly are lowered and with the stock pulley back on, were the TR55'* too cold of a plug and the carbon wouldn;t burn off causing the fouling? If so, I am good to go and can put new TR55'* back in after EM port matching, which should be happening here in the next couple of weeks. I am not going to pull off the EM'* until aftet I get my JET chip reburned.

Or will the PCM richen the mix if the IAT readings are high, which could cause my recent plug fouling issue?

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=39188

I hate trying to do 2 things at once while troubleshooting ...... I get wayyyyyyyy too hyper. Then I have to consume large quatities of rum in order to settle down. Then I get a creative burst of energy. And it starts all over again. Such a viscious cycle.

Sorry for the novel.
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