intake questions
Get it right behind the headlight, and have as few splices and transitions as possible. You're inducing turbulence, not giving the air time to straighten out, and sucking hot air from the radiator, instead of some fresh air from behind the headlight. Short ram isn't good for the 3800.
Is it proven? I believe in the idea of the cold air concept because it is logical, but are there previous topics with tests done that prove the theory. Sucking in hot air is bad, but how bad are we talking about? It looks short, but it is not as short as those ebay intakes, proably double the size of those. Plus my filter is shorter than yours which gives it that appereance.
The purpose of an aftermarket intake:
1. Provide laminar flow.
2. Provide cold air.
3. Increase the volume delivered to the TB.
4. Possible remove the MAF screen.
Your intake isn't improving #1 by much if at all. You need LENGTH to 'teach' the air to flow straight and laminar. This increases velocity, which in turn allows more CFM'* delivered.
Your intake is now pulling air at least 75° hotter than the stock box. Each 10°F costs you about 1% hp, as well as efficiency.
You also probably are nearly as turbulent as the stock intake/plenum, so removing your MAF screen may not be feasable.
My suggestion is to lose all the connections, and make one smooth pipe long enough to put that filter right behind the headlight, so it'* less apt to pull heat from the radiator shroud or crossover pipe. Even better would be a heat shield or CAI. Longer with no splices.
1. Provide laminar flow.
2. Provide cold air.
3. Increase the volume delivered to the TB.
4. Possible remove the MAF screen.
Your intake isn't improving #1 by much if at all. You need LENGTH to 'teach' the air to flow straight and laminar. This increases velocity, which in turn allows more CFM'* delivered.
Your intake is now pulling air at least 75° hotter than the stock box. Each 10°F costs you about 1% hp, as well as efficiency.
You also probably are nearly as turbulent as the stock intake/plenum, so removing your MAF screen may not be feasable.
My suggestion is to lose all the connections, and make one smooth pipe long enough to put that filter right behind the headlight, so it'* less apt to pull heat from the radiator shroud or crossover pipe. Even better would be a heat shield or CAI. Longer with no splices.
You really think I am as turbulent as stock? Stock was pretty bumpy. I have maybe two "speedbumps" as compared to stock which had like 4 or 5. But the fact that hot air is getting to it probably cancels out the laminar air flow performance increase.
Perhaps I will get one of those rice pipes from auto zone and test it out since everyone seems to like them.
2.5" tubing is to small to use, right? I have about 6 feet of flexible exhaust tubing that would be perfect but I think its the wrong size.
Perhaps I will get one of those rice pipes from auto zone and test it out since everyone seems to like them.
2.5" tubing is to small to use, right? I have about 6 feet of flexible exhaust tubing that would be perfect but I think its the wrong size.
Originally Posted by Twister97
You really think I am as turbulent as stock? Stock was pretty bumpy. I have maybe two "speedbumps" as compared to stock which had like 4 or 5. But the fact that hot air is getting to it probably cancels out the laminar air flow performance increase.
Perhaps I will get one of those rice pipes from auto zone and test it out since everyone seems to like them.
2.5" tubing is to small to use, right? I have about 6 feet of flexible exhaust tubing that would be perfect but I think its the wrong size.
Perhaps I will get one of those rice pipes from auto zone and test it out since everyone seems to like them.
2.5" tubing is to small to use, right? I have about 6 feet of flexible exhaust tubing that would be perfect but I think its the wrong size.
The top photos are for Big Boss since I said I would have them up for him today. The botoom ones are for will...what do you think of the pipe. Same one people use from auto zone, just had it lying around the house for a year. That black box is really annoying! Granted, I will have to cut the metal pipe down some so the filter will fit.








That'* mo' betta.
But if you really want the best performance out of it, paint your car green, and the intake red
Seriously.....get your IAT as close to the filter as possible, but don't forget engine torque will move the intake somewhat. Your coupler looks very rigid, so you may want to re-consider that. As the engine torques over, the filter will impact the under side of the hood insulator, and transfer stress to the TB......which is mounted to a plastic upper intake plenum. Think about that
As you can see in this vid http://www.williamwren.com/flex.mpg mine flexes quite a bit, but the flexible silicon reducer (coupler) flexes alot, taking the motion out of the equation.
But if you really want the best performance out of it, paint your car green, and the intake red

Seriously.....get your IAT as close to the filter as possible, but don't forget engine torque will move the intake somewhat. Your coupler looks very rigid, so you may want to re-consider that. As the engine torques over, the filter will impact the under side of the hood insulator, and transfer stress to the TB......which is mounted to a plastic upper intake plenum. Think about that

As you can see in this vid http://www.williamwren.com/flex.mpg mine flexes quite a bit, but the flexible silicon reducer (coupler) flexes alot, taking the motion out of the equation.
Ok, so I cut off some of the pipe and put the filter on. It is touching the body of the car, is that ok, or should I cut a inch more off the pipe? Most likely the K&N wont fit anyways with the length of that. My rubber coupler is pretty flexible, I can bend it easy and I have had it on for the last 2 months, but probably look for a silicone reducer in the future just to be sure. I watched your video. Do all 3800 engines jerk like that?? BTW....The whine was pretty cool





