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Old 02-07-2004, 11:35 AM   #41
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it wouldnt hurt to use the same grade bolts, would it?
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Old 02-07-2004, 12:26 PM   #42
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Quote:
it wouldnt hurt to use the same grade bolts, would it?
Maybe not but a Grade 8 bolt requires a lot more tensioning torque to maintain tightness and avoid fatigue breakage. That'* the main advantage of using a Grade 8 vs. a Grade 5 fastener. Most hardware store bolts are only Grade 2.
For those of you who are not familiar with differentiating the difference, you can tell what the grade of a bolt is by looking at the head for markings. Count the markings and add 2 to determine the grade. ie. a grade 5 bolt has 3 lines, a grade 8 has 6.

There'* really no advantage to using a grade 8 in this case IMO because it won't be pre-loaded.
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Old 02-07-2004, 10:17 PM   #43
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I have ordered a pair of urethane 3/4" spacers, bought a large washer and will get a 3" piece of drilled aluminum round stock made up.
I'm going to use a 1/2" diameter grade 5 stainless steel bolt with a nylock nut.
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Old 02-08-2004, 01:37 AM   #44
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The distance between the bottom of the motor mount bracket and the top side of the cross member on my car is 3 5/8 inches. The reason I used a grade 8 bolt is I found one that had a large enough head on it to support the washer. I put my bolt up through the bottom with the nut on top. Remember measure twice, cut once.
Or is it, I cut it twice and it'* still to short. My car is a 2000 SSEI. Different years different models might measure differently.
p.*. the bolt is 7.5" long
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Old 02-08-2004, 10:30 AM   #45
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The distance between the bottom of the motor mount bracket and the top side of the cross member on my car is 3 5/8 inches. The reason I used a grade 8 bolt is I found one that had a large enough head on it to support the washer. I put my bolt up through the bottom with the nut on top. Remember measure twice, cut once.
Or is it, I cut it twice and it'* still to short. My car is a 2000 SSEI. Different years different models might measure differently.
p.*. the bolt is 7.5" long
Thanks, that'* just the info I was looking for.
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Old 02-08-2004, 03:54 PM   #46
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Now get a TB spacer. I hope to have that, a CAI box, and TB heat shield on my 99 by late spring.

Nice clean job -when are you gonna start making them to sell? I really like the look of that and there is a lot of room there to put a water injection kit.

You might be able to make a couple $$ on them. You can use my 1999 for for proto-typing to the 1992-1999'* -that is if I can keep it for free.
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Old 02-08-2004, 04:32 PM   #47
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Quote:
Now get a TB spacer. I hope to have that, a CAI box, and TB heat shield on my 99 by late spring.

Nice clean job -when are you gonna start making them to sell? I really like the look of that and there is a lot of room there to put a water injection kit.

You might be able to make a couple $$ on them. You can use my 1999 for for proto-typing to the 1992-1999'* -that is if I can keep it for free.
There'* nothing to make really. I don't think the pre-2000 models have the room to come straight out. I discovered this purely by accident....the good kind.
There are enough vendors out there selling products....and I'm not really into that kind of thing. Anyone can buy the inexpensive bubble wrap and aluminum tape and be creative.
I've thought about a throttle body spacer but if I get one, it will have an injection point for Nitrous.
I'm staying away from nitrous before the SC. There is a kit on the market for injecting it after the SC.
Thanks for the compliment.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:43 AM   #48
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Where did you get the boot from? I'm going to need something untill dp releases their cai setup. With headers and 3.3" pulley my gutted stock box has put a serious dimple in my flat k&n filter.
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Old 02-09-2004, 11:37 PM   #49
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Got the boot from the plumbing store. A thick rubber 3"x4" hose connector. Cost about $15-$20. with SS clamps.
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Old 02-10-2004, 01:19 AM   #50
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that thing probably insulates heat pretty well too
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