Illustrated rebuilding of a L36 into a supercharged 3800... - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 01-07-2007, 02:40 PM   #41
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rocker bolts are TTY...

IIRC they are 19ftlbs with a 90* TTY
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Old 01-07-2007, 02:51 PM   #42
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A good indication is the amount of shavings Curt got off the bolts by chasing the threads
with a die (see pic on previous page). A bolt that has not stretched shouldn't ever
produce that many shavings if chased with the proper die.
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Old 01-07-2007, 03:19 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
A good indication is the amount of shavings Curt got off the bolts by chasing the threads
with a die (see pic on previous page). A bolt that has not stretched shouldn't ever
produce that many shavings if chased with the proper die.
Hmmm. I guess the 1996 GMP F-Carline manual is wrong (wouldn't be the first time.) I kinda expect the generic Hayes to be wrong and only use it as a cross-reference on the GM manual.

Rocker arm bolts were marked "KX" on the caps, indicating a prevailing torque bolt, typical of one with a locking compound pre-applied. Head bolts are marked "TX" with the same orange, fiberous, locking compound.
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Old 01-07-2007, 03:26 PM   #44
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Let'* check some FSM'* to be sure. I may be wrong on these. But the amount of shavings the die produced is what got my attention.
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Old 01-07-2007, 03:31 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clm2112
Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Ok, time for a question. You clean up and re-use TTY bolts? I thought the rocker arm
bolts were one-time use? What'* the difference betweeen them and 'reusable' bolts?

My understanding was the rocker bolts and head bolts stretched after initial torquing.
You could very well be right. If the rocker arm bolts are a one-time use, then they are going in the trashcan. I didn't see any notes in the service manuals I have indicating the rocker arm bolts were one time use. Just a reference on the rocker arm bolts to apply tread locking sealant and torque to 28ft-lbs.

On the head bolts, I haven't read up on the reassembly of the heads, so I can't answer that one just yet, though again it wouldn't surprise me to find they are torque-to-yeild bolts and are more trashcan material.
I know the head bolts are TTY... For the series I engines they run $25-$30 for a set of Fel Pro head bolts... Not sure on the series II..

Supposedly the Rocker arm bolts are TTY iirc

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Old 01-07-2007, 03:53 PM   #46
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Also, on those that want to do a performance rebuild or plan to take the heads off from time to time, ARP head studs may be the better option since those are not a TTY design.

When I pulled the rockers off of my S1, they were loaded with threadlocker, and seemed to be more on those than on the headbolts.

EDIT: The above statement should be clarified a bit. For the size and purpose of the bolts, the rocker bolts *seemed* to have thicker coverage than the headbolts. Yeah, that sounds better
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Old 01-07-2007, 10:25 PM   #47
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i need to know very soon if i can re-use my rocker arm bolts...
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:15 PM   #48
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Billboost is on the phone with me. He'* reminding me of the last time I looked it up, and
is stating that I looked it up and told him they were TTY.
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:37 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Billboost is on the phone with me. He'* reminding me of the last time I looked it up, and
is stating that I looked it up and told him they were TTY.
Ok, so the Rocker Arm bolts and Cylinder Head bolts go in the trash and on the shopping list for replacents...err, actually, they go in the coffee can of bolts that get used for odd-jobs around the house.

So far the list of replacement parts includes:

1.) Main Journal Bearings
2.) Rod Bearings
3.) Cam Bearings (Included in the block prep charge from machine shop)
4.) Balancer Shaft bushing (also included with block)
5.) Pushrods
6.) Head Bolt set
7.) Rocker arm bolt set
8.) all gaskets and seals
9.) Plastic Lifter retainer/locking plates (2)
10.) Cam Chain Tensioner

That should be about $350 to $400 worth of bits. Not bad thus far, could be worse.

Today I should find out about the block'* condition to see if new pistons will be required.
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:49 PM   #50
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Phone rings, the heavens open, and a word is spoken from on high....."Overbore"


Ok, that'* the word from the machine shop. To get the block cylinders squeeky clean, straight, and true, they bored the block 0.030" over. I can pick the block up tommorrow afternoon.

Time to add about $400+ to the budget on the next payday. I'm going to use blower pistons and matching rods. I need to double check that overbore number. I may have to have the pistons custom made.

Any suggestions on a target compression ratio to aim for? I'm tempted to go with the higher N/A compression ratio with the blower heads...but the lower stock ratio would probably work better on mid-grade pump gas.
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