Illustrated rebuilding of a L36 into a supercharged 3800... - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 01-02-2007, 11:00 PM   #21
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Great blow-by blow. Keep it up Curt.

This is also a good showing for the EVILS of DEXcool. That'* a MESS.
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Old 01-03-2007, 12:26 AM   #22
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This is one of the best threads I've seen in a while.

Gearhead delight
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Old 01-03-2007, 08:08 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandrock
Will the shop knock-out and install new block plugs as well?
Around here, knocking out the freeze and oil gallery plugs are included in the fee for cleaning the block, so I'm not going to waste any time doing it. The place I'm taking the block to will also put the new ones in and stake them in place (there'* a charge for the plugs, but it'* not out of line.) Like the LT1 motor they did for me a few months ago, Frank will just hand me the oil galley plugs and I'll put them in myself. I'll let his boys put the water jacket plugs in for me.

Same goes for the cam bearings, since they can drive the new ones in properly. The cam bearings are in the main webs that go across the block at each main cap. To install them, start by putting the block up on it'* bellhousing flange. The tool to install the bearings is a long steel rod with a machined aluminum cap. Set a cam bearing in place, starting at the rearmost bearing, and use the tool to drive the cam bearing in place. The tool keeps the bearing square to it'* pocket as it is driven in. You also have to line up the oil feed hole in the bearings to the oil passage in the block.

I didn't see the cleanout plug on the side of the block, but now that I know it'* there, I'll go remove it. You find these on most motors. The internal passages are small and need to be machined at the factory with drills. As a result, a pipe plug(*) needs to go in to seal up the passage.

Looking at the main bearing shells, you can see there are two holes drilled in each along with a groove. One hole feeds oil into the crank journal. the other feeds oil back up to the cam bearings. In the crankshaft there are holes drilled at angles between the main journals and the crank journals. These feed oil from the mains out to the rod bearings. Any excess oil at this point will bleed out of the rod bearings and get slung around inside the block. A fair amount of it will also get shoved by centripital acceleration up the connecting rod and end up lubricating the wrist pin and pooling in the underside of the piston crown. That oil will pass through the oil control rings in the piston and lubricate the cylinder bores.

The oiling system is pretty complicated, so yes, as James mentioned you need to clean the passages out. A rifle cleaning brush is going to be used extensively to clean out the passages.

While looking at the bearings, note that the #2 main cap bearing is different from the others. It has shoulders on it that wrap around the sides of the cap. This is the thrust bearing that keeps the crank from walking towards the front or rear of the block.
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Old 01-03-2007, 02:30 PM   #24
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very good write up

can we sticky this
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Old 01-03-2007, 09:10 PM   #25
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Ok, this evening'* task was to take the block off the stand.

I put the bare block down on the bathroom scale and came up with 120lbs with main caps on.

Block is now safely tucked into the trunk of the '90 Bonneville for the 7:00am ride to the machine shop. (I really miss my old Astro Van :( ) Basic cleaning is $40 plus the freeze plugs and cam bearings. He'* has also been asked to inspect the bores and see if an overbore is required.

All new parts purchasing is on hold pending the decision on an overbore.

If none is required and the pistons & rods check out, then the plan is to rebuild using the L36 rods and pistons and new rings.

If the motor needs an overbore +010, +020, or +030 to clear the cylinders, then the plan changes to purchasing new L32 pistons and the appropriate rods. Probably go with the Diamond pistons, but will call JE to see if they can make a forged piston for me.

Any overbore beyond +030 and the block is scrap. It could be overbored larger than +030, but my personal call will be to scrap the block and go get another one.

In the meantime, we'll pick up tommorrow with parts cleaning, starting with tearing down the roller-lifters.
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:11 PM   #26
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Why do I see the top end of a Series I L67 on a plastic tub?
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:19 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Wikoff
Why do I see the top end of a Series I L67 on a plastic tub?
Because it is one.

Before a complete supercharged Series II motor showed up, I planned on taking the LN3 motor and tacking the M62 supercharger on it.

There are actually three superchargers & manifolds out in the garage at present. One M90 is assembled on the 2000 motor, another M90 is tucked away on a shelf awaiting the long block that is the subject of this thread, and the M62 that sneeked into the background of the photos. Welcome to "Blowerdom"

Of course, there is also a LS9 350 V8 truck motor on a stand, an entire rebuilt LT1 driveline on the floor awaiting the '94 Camaro, and a dead Honda VTR-250 hiding out in the garage too.. I'm just a motor-****.

So, for the amusement of all....here'* what the rest of my garage looks like:



"Gridlock" is a regular occurance out here.
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:21 PM   #28
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Thought you were doing a Series II.
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Old 01-04-2007, 01:07 AM   #29
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do i see a CSC? on the v8
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Old 01-04-2007, 08:28 AM   #30
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Let'* keep it on topic guys. the GH'* aim to use this in the future.
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