40 over may be deadly to the block. 30 over is considered unsafe depending on casting and 40 over may just put you over the edge

There are two letters preventing me from understanding this thread.

May I very politely ask: What the hell 'KR' stands for?

KR or Knock Retard is caused by vibrations in the engine block and detonation. In the event either of these are detected by a knock sensor and a signal is sent to the PCM and the PCM will reduce timing to protect the engine.

aight i will stick with just 20 over i don't want to do more harm than good
it just delivered it to the shop where it is goin to be bored and the pistons will arrive this afternoon and i convinced the guys that are boring the block to get it done by tomorrow so i can get it together asap!!!

so i will let you know how it goes and i will try to take pics i didn't take any of the tear down but i will try to take some of the build up

Ok I have a bunch of questions:

Are you guys equating Knock Reduction with pre-detonation? Because it seems to me that pre-detonation would be the ABSENCE of Knock Reduction. Am I wrong? :?

What does a pulley change and fuel pressure have to do with pre-detonation? :?

Finally, why is the original poster trying to find all kinds of engine parts to sustain the onslaught of pre-detonation, rather than just eliminating the source of pre-detonation in the first place? :?

The PCM can only retard timing a certain amount. From there, you blow up if you continue to knock and detonate. As in the case of this topic'* author. Series 1 only has a single knock sensor as opposed the two in the S2. This means if the sensor fails, you might just go boom.

Smaller pulleys produce more boost pressure and heat. Heat causes detonation/knock. Colder plugs, porting, headers, etc can all help reduce it after the pulley change. Fuel pressure is two-fold. You need to keep up with the fuel demands under full throttle, because a lean condition can cause BOOM in forced induction. In addition, the fuel can have a cooling effect in the cylinder. This is why we run full rich under WOT conditions by design.

Ok that answers my questions and creates one more:

How would you increase your fuel pressure if you needed to? :?

Get a Walbro 255lph fuel pump and an adjustabale FPR. I had to do that very thing, but I have a rather odd setup.

In the case of the Series1, we can stick with the OEM fuel pump (L67), as it actually supports more horsepower in stock form than the S2 L67 fuel pump. However, if your pump is old, you should still replace it (just threw this in here for the S1 guys, as the OEM pump is slightly cheaper than the Walbro).

I have to ask, if the pistons are going to be arrive so soon, did you order .020 over pistons to fit the bore? Also, I personally would take the pistons to the machinst prior to the boring to have them individually fitted to each cylinder. Just my thought.... Maybe this is too late in the game for that.

*edit*Nevermind. I misread and thought you said they'd be in tomorrow afternoon. I'm blind.

Well the pistons will be in on monday and the block won't be started until monday so as soon as the pistons come in they will be delivered to the machinist so that each of them can be matched to a cylinder.

and the motor should be in the car and running by the end of the week!!