HELP! - Scan Results for L36 w/ cam, high compression
12-12-2005, 04:42 AM
#81
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I have all the plugs, but we didn't keep them in order :(. From what I remember, the #3 was black, whereas the others were more of a brownish color. I'll take a look tomorrow when I dig in for diagnosis. I'll test the pulse with a noid light, then go from there. Keep checking for updates!
Actually.... should I start a maintenance thread in 92-99?
Actually.... should I start a maintenance thread in 92-99?
12-12-2005, 11:29 AM
#82
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I do not want you to take this as an insult to your mechanical capabilities, nevertheless, the way the cam was broken-in, is a recipe for disaster and can cause premature lobe failure. Any new or regorund camshaft, must be run a minimum of 15 minutes from 1,500 to 3,000 RPMS. Period!!
This excerpt is from the Crane Cams website:
I have seen too many camshafts damaged because this procedure was not followed.
This excerpt is from the Crane Cams website:
Correct break-in procedure.
After the correct break-in lubricant is applied to the cam and lifters, fill the crankcase with fresh non-synthetic oil. Prime the oil system with a priming tool and an electric drill so that all oil passages and the oil filter are full of oil. Pre-set the ignition timing and prime the fuel system. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine. The engine should start quickly and run between 1500 and 3000 rpm.
If the engine will not start, don't continue to crank for long periods, as that is very detrimental to the life of the cam. Check for the cause and correct. The engine should quickly start and be run between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm). During this break-in time, verify that the pushrods are rotating, as this will show that the lifters are also rotating. If the lifters don't rotate, the cam lobe and lifter will fail. Sometimes you may need to help spin the pushrod to start the rotation process during this break-in procedure.
After the correct break-in lubricant is applied to the cam and lifters, fill the crankcase with fresh non-synthetic oil. Prime the oil system with a priming tool and an electric drill so that all oil passages and the oil filter are full of oil. Pre-set the ignition timing and prime the fuel system. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine. The engine should start quickly and run between 1500 and 3000 rpm.
If the engine will not start, don't continue to crank for long periods, as that is very detrimental to the life of the cam. Check for the cause and correct. The engine should quickly start and be run between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm). During this break-in time, verify that the pushrods are rotating, as this will show that the lifters are also rotating. If the lifters don't rotate, the cam lobe and lifter will fail. Sometimes you may need to help spin the pushrod to start the rotation process during this break-in procedure.
12-12-2005, 12:15 PM
#83
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Ah, I see......
I did forget to mention that we were idling the motor and doing slow revs the night we fired the car. We didn't follow that procedure exactly, but we ran the motor without any load for at least 15 minutes the night before we took it out on the street.
When you asked about "break in," I was thinking about some kind of long-term process of driving it around under certain speeds, much the same way you would break in a new motor. I was not thinking about the idling and low RPM revs that we did when the car fired for the first time.
I can almost guarantee you the problem is NOT with the camshaft or another hard part. Broken cams and bad valves wouldn't come and go on a whim, which is what this symptom is doing. I'm going to check out the injector today.
I did forget to mention that we were idling the motor and doing slow revs the night we fired the car. We didn't follow that procedure exactly, but we ran the motor without any load for at least 15 minutes the night before we took it out on the street.
When you asked about "break in," I was thinking about some kind of long-term process of driving it around under certain speeds, much the same way you would break in a new motor. I was not thinking about the idling and low RPM revs that we did when the car fired for the first time.
I can almost guarantee you the problem is NOT with the camshaft or another hard part. Broken cams and bad valves wouldn't come and go on a whim, which is what this symptom is doing. I'm going to check out the injector today.
12-12-2005, 04:54 PM
#84
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Another update-
I talked to Bill Buttermore and decided to take the car over to him for some diagnostic help. On the way to his house, of course, the misfire cleared up and the car started purring like a kitten. So as of right now, it'* running fine.
Fuel trims still need some work, and I think we took a few frequencies a little too far yesterday. I'm seeing 13-14% rich in some MAF frequencies, but still lean in others. It'll take some time, but at least it isn't ridiculously lean like before. I prefer too much fuel, rather than too little.
And let me tell you guys, this thing pulls pretty nice in the upper revs. It'* still a dog down low, but if you can get it to kick down a gear it'* all smiles
. There'* a distinct "pop" to the exhaust from the high compression, and I gotta say that I'm loving it. I'll try to get some sound or movie files for you guys to enjoy.
There'* still more tuning to do, but it'* getting closer. Thanks for all the help so far.
Oh, and somebody find me a cheap LS1M
I talked to Bill Buttermore and decided to take the car over to him for some diagnostic help. On the way to his house, of course, the misfire cleared up and the car started purring like a kitten. So as of right now, it'* running fine.
Fuel trims still need some work, and I think we took a few frequencies a little too far yesterday. I'm seeing 13-14% rich in some MAF frequencies, but still lean in others. It'll take some time, but at least it isn't ridiculously lean like before. I prefer too much fuel, rather than too little.
And let me tell you guys, this thing pulls pretty nice in the upper revs. It'* still a dog down low, but if you can get it to kick down a gear it'* all smiles
. There'* a distinct "pop" to the exhaust from the high compression, and I gotta say that I'm loving it. I'll try to get some sound or movie files for you guys to enjoy.There'* still more tuning to do, but it'* getting closer. Thanks for all the help so far.
Oh, and somebody find me a cheap LS1M
12-12-2005, 05:02 PM
#85
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Originally Posted by ssei1995
I do not want you to take this as an insult to your mechanical capabilities, nevertheless, the way the cam was broken-in, is a recipe for disaster and can cause premature lobe failure. Any new or regorund camshaft, must be run a minimum of 15 minutes from 1,500 to 3,000 RPMS. Period!!
This excerpt is from the Crane Cams website:
......
I have seen too many camshafts damaged because this procedure was not followed.
This excerpt is from the Crane Cams website:
......
I have seen too many camshafts damaged because this procedure was not followed.
which is what that quote from Crane was stating....
no breaking period is required for hydraulic roller cams....at least none of the ones that i've installed....
flat tappet cams are a different story...they do need to be broken in....
Regards, James
12-12-2005, 10:05 PM
#87
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There are two types of hydraulic roller camshaft cores: steel and cast. The only time you do not break-in a hydraulic roller cam is when you have a steel billet or a camshaft with solid roller lifters. Crane Cams uses its own special core for their new hydraulic roller camshafts that does not require break-in. As a matter of fact, Crane is the main supplier for camshaft cores in the industry. They supply cores to Lunati, Comp and many others. When you have a hydraulic roller with a cast camshaft or re-ground, then it is recommended that you break-in the cam. I am also talking from others actual experience and my own too.
If you go to every camshaft manufacturer, each one has its own procedure they want the customer to follow for breaking-in a camshaft. However, it does not address re-ground camshafts.
If you go to every camshaft manufacturer, each one has its own procedure they want the customer to follow for breaking-in a camshaft. However, it does not address re-ground camshafts.
12-12-2005, 10:08 PM
#88
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I'm hoping like H*** those lifters aren't rotating....
12-13-2005, 11:53 PM
#89
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