HELP! - Scan Results for L36 w/ cam, high compression - Page 6 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-04-2005, 06:59 PM   #51
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: South Bend, IN (hometown) Indianapolis,IN (college)
Posts: 1,598
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ELMACHOGERACHO is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
I think a good scan of yours and a couple other known good L36'* may be in order.

Try cold idle, hot idle, 2000 rpm'* and 3000 rpm'*.

I can't help you there, as the only purpose of the MAP sensor on my 93 is for the boost reading (never reads manifold vac except at idle) and the 95 didn't get one, as it didn't come with a boost gauge.

Really need to compare to some L36'* here.

what specific stats are you looking for? i can use a scan tool at school tom.
ELMACHOGERACHO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2005, 07:23 PM   #52
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

MAP readings at the rpm'* and conditions I posted above.

Cold idle (after the RPM'* settle, not right at startup)
Hot idle (above 175 ECT)
2000 rpms hot
3000 rpms hot (both of these in N)
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2005, 07:40 PM   #53
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
95naSTA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Philly
Posts: 4,508
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
95naSTA is on a distinguished road
Default

Sorry. 95 L36'* didn't come with a map sensor.
95naSTA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2005, 10:39 AM   #54
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 7,030
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
lash is on a distinguished road
Default

RE the vacuum question. FWIW, mine had a couple bad rubber vacuum connectors and would run like crap at idle and sometimes would choke at stoplights. $2 worth of rubber hose and a "T" connector later and everything was fine.

I know that you have a lot more going on than my stock L36, just FWIW.
lash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2005, 01:45 PM   #55
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 3,459
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
big_news_1 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks for the input, lash. Doug and I tried to use a different connector, but we couldn't get it to fit correctly. I'm sure I'll figure something out, though.

Bill, I imagine you probably have some other type of rubber vacuum connectors on your car, because I can't fathom the stockers holding up after 12 years. Got any ideas for replacement vacuum lines/fittings? I'm not sure that I need them yet, but I think it would be excellent preventative maintenance, considering that at least one of mine is cracked.

Heck, that could be why I'm so lean... the bad fitting is part of the vacuum line that connects to the FPR. Right now the fitting is patched with RTV and being held on the TB with a zip tie, but it could very well be leaking. Maybe this calls for a vacuum system renovation?
big_news_1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2005, 02:57 PM   #56
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

Spray carb cleaner on that fitting, or any other place you suspect a possible vacuum leak (while idling).

If the rpm'* fluctuate when you do this, you found your leak.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2005, 03:29 PM   #57
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 3,459
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
big_news_1 is on a distinguished road
Default

Do you still have your stock vacuum connectors or not? I guess rubber vacuum tubing could be used in place of the stock lines, eh?
big_news_1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2005, 03:59 PM   #58
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: South Bend, IN (hometown) Indianapolis,IN (college)
Posts: 1,598
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ELMACHOGERACHO is on a distinguished road
Default

here are my readings

Volts Hg
cold 1.57 11.8
hot 1.46 11.3
2k rpms .93 8.3
3k rpms .83 7.7

hope they help.
ELMACHOGERACHO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2005, 05:01 PM   #59
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 3,459
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
big_news_1 is on a distinguished road
Default

Hmmmm..... check out these two quotes from the 3800Pro thread I linked above:

Quote:
For most n/a cars, idle vacuum should read around 18-25" Hg. At WOT it should read between 5-0" Hg. You can learn a lot from a vacuum gauge, but I just keep a portable one around for use in diagnosing my family'* cars.
Quote:
All readings are based on atmospheric pressure, or barometric pressure. On a vacuum gauge that is the 0 (zero) reading. As you know, an engine is a pump so as it runs it draws air into the cylinders. When at idle the throttle plate is closed (or nearly closed) and you might have an idle bypass valve open. This means that the engine is having to draw air through a very narrow opening. When this is the case the engine will create a vacuum state (where the pressure of air in the plenum is less than atmospheric) and you will see a higher number on the guage. The smaller the opening the more vacuum you will have. So if you have a vacuum leak you will see less vacuum at idle than normal, a smaller number reading.

When at WOT the reading on the guage is an indication of how well the plenum can feed the air that the engine is demanding, but it also depends on spark advance and fuel. Todays engines are really efficient so you will see very close to 0 on the guage.

According to this info, you might have a vacuum leak somewhere as well. I might head out and check my numbers after all.
big_news_1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2005, 05:13 PM   #60
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

You are more susceptible. Most cars can compensate for small vac leaks based on O2 sensor data, but with your increased flow, your margin is much tighter.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
L36 Compression #'s ? 68w46 1992-1999 2 02-11-2007 01:39 AM
Compression test results 96bonneville 1992-1999 5 12-08-2006 05:52 PM
Increasing compression - Need scan help, please view! big_news_1 Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning 109 11-29-2005 03:00 PM
Compression Test Results/Question Daron97SSE 1992-1999 6 11-22-2005 03:17 PM
OBDII Scan Results.. Help.... MadSam 1992-1999 22 07-21-2005 11:32 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:57 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.