Just drove it today for the first time on a few weeks(blew a tire and had to wait for cash to buy another one) and it must know im trying to figure it out cause its running perfect...I'm going to drive it to work today and see if its working right still.

Incidentally, if anyone has seen sawgunner tell him he owes me a pcm tray :-p

haven't been back to NH to find it yet and my family is a bunch of idiots so can't rely on them to find it

Lol that'* ok just don't forget if and when you go that way,

Drove it tonight, outside temp of 78. Drove about 30 minutes of cruising with the occasional traffic light. I noticed the IAT was consistently staying about 95° even at highway speeds. If I gunned it it would cool down but quickly return once I let off.

When I installed it it seemed very close to the coupler, so close in fact that it caught the edge and broke the plastic cage off the sensor. It seems like it mights be getting some heat soak. Would relocating the IAT further away be of any benefit?

Probably would.

I know that newer MAF'* also act as an IAT sensor (e.g., 3800 Series III), but on older cars like ours, I expect that the computer would be happier if you could put the IAT sensor in roughly the same spot as it is on a stock engine.

If you need an IAT extension cable, ZZP sells one that won't break your wallet too badly.

extend it with regular wire, extend one wire at a time,then drill a 1/2 hole into the filter and rtv it into there

well since the car has decided to make me look like a total idiot by behaving itself in front of company, I decided to pursue the evap codes...

a brief history, I had codes P0452, P0453, P0440 and some other one all related to the evap. I changed the vapor solenoid, which cleared them for a few days and then returned. then I installed the fuel tank pressure sensor and now all are gone except the P0440 which shows up along with the Check Gas Cap message on the DIC.

what direction should I take with this search? I know to inspect my vacuum lines and have went over all the underhood ones several times. would I be better off getting a smoke test done instead of jumping at shadows?

I had same issue, after looking into it there was a vacuum line on the bottom of the that was cracked on the lower side I could not see. I replaced it and never again came back.

A massive vacuum leak will cause high fuel trim numbers (your 99%) and will cause an obvious problem.Hows the knock sensor? Is the engine pinging at all? This one seems interesting...And are you really in 123 degree heat? screw that!!

Yeah, what does that 99% mean? and are these snapshot numbers or averages? Or can you see the trims as the STFT tries to "work-down" the LTFT while the car is idling or throttled? Ya have to be able to do that, because there is a difference between an idling high LTFT and one during throttle. My experience with N/A Series II (I have two plus the SSEi, all 14+ yrs old) is that you can have a rather non-optimal LTFT at idle (on a $50 used Actron, that could read +10 to +14 , but as soon as you go to throttle.. everything turns to beautiful as the STFT pulls down the LTFT. Although the numbers are jumping like gnats, you can see that the net trim (STFT + LTFT) is in the sweet zone of +5 to -2.

If that 99% is equivalent to the 3800 +16.4 (that'* the max LTFT), you are sucking air. The PCM is piling on the fuel. FWIW, when that gets pegged at 16.4, the STFT is really working its sss off. If the net fuel trim (16.4 + STFT) gets just over +30.. you will be the proud owner of the legendary P0171. The pegged +16.4 LTFT is the universal smoking gun of a vacuum leak and the P0171.