DrJay's Performance Rebuild: SSE-I - Page 34 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 01-16-2004, 09:21 PM   #331
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Well he said it itsn't building any pressure so he ordered a 'rebuild kit' for the oil pump. He said he tried running it for 10seconds and there was no pressure so he shut it off. He also said he tried to 'hand' prelube it (whatever that is) to no avail. I dunno, I haven't gotten a chance to sit down and talk to him about it but thats whats being said. He said the kit should be there shortly.
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Old 01-16-2004, 09:30 PM   #332
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i have no idea how he hand prelubed it, the oil pump is located in the timing cover and it driven directly by the crank. on some, you need to pack the oil pump with white lithieum grease to prime it. maybe this is why he has no oil pressure. also, if it ran like that, you might wanna check the bearings again. it doesnt take long to scar them.
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Old 01-16-2004, 09:31 PM   #333
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yeah thats actually how chiltons suggests you lube it. It says it doesn't require a pre-lube just run for 10seconds if there is no pressure shutdown and check everything.
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:31 PM   #334
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just letting you know I'm hoping it all turns out well for you.
-Mike D.
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:02 PM   #335
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HOLY F#@K! okay, aparently I was mistaken earlier. It wasen't the rod caps that were messed up, it was the main caps. Thats what was being waited on all this time. He got everything put together and the oil pump was installed but I just got off the phone with him and aparently 3 of the rod caps are 0.10 under and 3 are 0.11 under which is causing problems with oil pressure...is what he says. Anyway I just got off a heated arguement with him over the time this is taking and the fact that that probably should have been measured before hand. I gave him a beat up *** bottom end and he just grabbed a crank matching what I had in there and slapped it back in. WTF is going on here? Should this have been measured before hand? Should all of the rods been measured for problems before putting it back together? Is this standard practice to look at a .010 under crank and assume all the rods are sized to the same .010 ?? He was kind of confusing the way he talked but what I gathered is that the machinist measured 3 of them and assumed the other 3 were the same size when they weren't. So now he says they're sending the crank back to have a custom grind done on it because of 3 of the rods are off. Making sense? What do you guys think? Other than that he says he should have the crank sent off by Monday, back by wed, then reinstall. He wouldn't give me a time he would definately be done so thats whats up. I'm thinking about taking it to another shop but I get the feeling he'* going to demand I pay the full amount since this wasen't in the original pricing but I think it should be standard when he'* handed a jacked up bottom end to make sure all the specs are right and send the crank off accordingly, not measure 3 and make assumptions and now I'm paying for it. Anyway, lemme know what you guys think.
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:21 PM   #336
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his reasoning was that "you just don't see 3 .010 and 3 .011, really you don't see non-standard sizes like .011. The machinist before me really messed these up and now I have to go back through, its really his fault"
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:30 PM   #337
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well the price remains the same on the whole thing so the price of it really isn't an issue. He'* telling me that he'* losing money on this "project" now. He said he'* going to get me a custom crank and have that installed. I appreciate the help on this though. So, would you let this slide? I refuse to get walked on by this guy but if its a legit thing then I'd feel like an *** yelling at him. MY thinking is that all the crap should have been measured but if thats not standard practice and assumptions always worked before I could kind of understand but I take this as a mis-judgement that I'm paying for, in down time that is.
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:55 PM   #338
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when you buy a crank kit, it comes with the correct bearings for the crank. well it should.
if you have main bearing caps messed up, youre talking big bux now. you have 2 ways to fix it if the main caps are bad.
1) mill the caps and have the bare block line bored
2) replace the block.
as far as oil pressure goes. if the bearings are too tight, it will max the oil pressure because it will work hard to push it through whick will make the pressure higher. the pump is right next to the oil filter and the sending unit is right there too.
when you install a crank. always plastigage it. no matter what
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:57 PM   #339
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well aparently the main caps aren't an issue now, its the rod caps now. The main caps were machined and one was really messed up so it took a long time to get back. I just dunno what to think anymore
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Old 01-20-2004, 08:12 PM   #340
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did they just do one main cap?
you cant do it like that. if one is bad, you need to mill all of them and then line bore it, if you dont, the crank will sit in the block at an angle, not that you can see it, but with a line bore, you can.
sounds like you need to start looking for another block
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