Allow me to introduce you to:
#1
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
Allow me to introduce you to:
The 92-99 solid front trans mount.
I'm sick and damn tired of ripping these suckers apart in less than 1000 miles.
isclaimer:
This is for the TOY car. Excess vibration and brutal forces to the differntial will be the end result if you try this. This mod is for the serious balls-out performance vehicle only. Test-fit and test-ride are at least 3 months away. This is just showing you the IDEA:
I have two spare front trans mounts here. One from Badnit, one from jr's3800. Badnit'* was in FAR better condition, so I used it to create the welding jig, as it was very obvious and easy to get it re-aligned. It'* important to start with a good template to make sure it'll bolt up to the car later.
After the jig was made, I stripped the rubber and epoxy out of jr's3800'* mount, cleaned it up, and custom cut the pieces I needed:
Note the clamps holding the mount in the 'OEM' configuration, and to the jig:
Now strip your 'victim'.
This is what it took to get that pesky rubber out:
Fixtured in the jig:
First piece welded on. It'* important to know the load axis and forces before selecting the areas to beef up:
Safety first. This is so you don't get beer in your eye:
Continuing to weld in reinforcements:
Got 'em all in, now for the cleanup (flash distorts the paint color........it'* actually red):
Excess engine vibration will be the result of this, as well as an early differential death if proper precautions aren't taken. I have another idea for dampening out those vibrations with this uber-solid mount. That idea will come later.
Just thought I'd share the work so far.
I'm sick and damn tired of ripping these suckers apart in less than 1000 miles.
isclaimer:
This is for the TOY car. Excess vibration and brutal forces to the differntial will be the end result if you try this. This mod is for the serious balls-out performance vehicle only. Test-fit and test-ride are at least 3 months away. This is just showing you the IDEA:
I have two spare front trans mounts here. One from Badnit, one from jr's3800. Badnit'* was in FAR better condition, so I used it to create the welding jig, as it was very obvious and easy to get it re-aligned. It'* important to start with a good template to make sure it'll bolt up to the car later.
After the jig was made, I stripped the rubber and epoxy out of jr's3800'* mount, cleaned it up, and custom cut the pieces I needed:
Note the clamps holding the mount in the 'OEM' configuration, and to the jig:
Now strip your 'victim'.
This is what it took to get that pesky rubber out:
Fixtured in the jig:
First piece welded on. It'* important to know the load axis and forces before selecting the areas to beef up:
Safety first. This is so you don't get beer in your eye:
Continuing to weld in reinforcements:
Got 'em all in, now for the cleanup (flash distorts the paint color........it'* actually red):
Excess engine vibration will be the result of this, as well as an early differential death if proper precautions aren't taken. I have another idea for dampening out those vibrations with this uber-solid mount. That idea will come later.
Just thought I'd share the work so far.
#3
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Re: Allow me to introduce you to:
Originally Posted by willwren
Excess engine vibration will be the result of this, as well as an early differential death if proper precautions aren't taken. I have another idea for dampening out those vibrations with this uber-solid mount. That idea will come later.
#4
Yes, I agree. The dampening is more for the luxury passenger isolation of vibration than the effect on the drivetrain.
Not sure why you kept the shock in place. :?
Nice modding Bill.
Come on now Wait for me. I want to play too
Not sure why you kept the shock in place. :?
Nice modding Bill.
Come on now Wait for me. I want to play too
#6
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
The first instantaneous torque on the drivetrain is absorbed by the 4 mounts. If you stiffen it up, that shock load is transmitted to the differential. It'* the weak point between the road and the engine.
Think of an electric motor attached to a fan blade with a plastic coupler. Start the fan with the blades stuck against the floor. What'* going to break? Simple. The weakest point in the system.
I kept the shock in place because there'* no point in removing it. It'* not in the way, and there'* still limited flex in the mount, and shock may assist resistance to that. FYI, I taped the shaft of the shock before painting.
Paul, I have another one to do this to if you want to play, or we can install this one.
Think of an electric motor attached to a fan blade with a plastic coupler. Start the fan with the blades stuck against the floor. What'* going to break? Simple. The weakest point in the system.
I kept the shock in place because there'* no point in removing it. It'* not in the way, and there'* still limited flex in the mount, and shock may assist resistance to that. FYI, I taped the shaft of the shock before painting.
Paul, I have another one to do this to if you want to play, or we can install this one.
#9
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
You'd guess this is the prototype and I used my Arc welder.
The final version if this works will be made out of the other one, and a full-box wedge will replace the rubber.
The final version if this works will be made out of the other one, and a full-box wedge will replace the rubber.
#10
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
Eeek. I guess there was no gas shielding?
Not bad for a prototype, Bill. I ought to do this someday.