92 oldsmobile 88 stalling when cold fine when warmed up - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 03-08-2006, 02:03 PM   #41
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compression tested and just came back in. compression on all 6 cylinders is the same wet and dry. checked oil and thats full too. touched the 2 lines that come off the junction box next to the fuel presure regulator and they snapped in half (the rubber) one line goes to the evap canister the other one goes to a metal piece on the drivers side of the engine. so im going to get the vaccum hose later my question is would that have caused the problem?
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:12 PM   #42
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It most assuredly could have. Cracked vacuum line fittings were the only cause for my CEl and rough running last fall. While you are at it, I recommend replacing any others that are not looking perfect or are brittle. Low cost repair and worth the time to do all at once, IMO.
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:18 PM   #43
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as soon as i get a ride to the auto parts store im going to change them. i dont want to drive there with vaccum line fittings that are like crumbled to **** and then having my car die and the autoparts store not have the size i need. (its happened before) so at 215 when everyone gets out of school i will get a ride down and buy some new ones.
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:23 PM   #44
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I hope you have luck and find all you need at the parts store. I ended up having to buy some of the special shaped ones from the Pontiac dealer. They were still cheap, but it took more time.

Another option, ala Echo SSEI and BillBoost37, is to buy a 1/4" silicone vaccum line hose kit (in your favorite color) and use it. I hear that the silicone is flexible enough to fit all the different sized fittings and could save you running around to find all the rubber connectors.
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:38 PM   #45
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ok thanks im gunna try that ill let you know around 230 how it worked.
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:13 PM   #46
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Sounds good. I hope this is the vacuum leak we have been looking for all along. By the way, can you post those compression numbers and note whether they were taken warm or cold?
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Old 03-08-2006, 07:06 PM   #47
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replaced the vaccum hoses... it wasnt the problem unfortionatly. i will do the compression test again tomarow and write down the numbers so i can tell you guys i know they were all about the same and all over 130.
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Old 03-08-2006, 07:45 PM   #48
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Can you put a vacuum gauge on the intake manifold and tell us what you read with the car idling? Then what the reading is when you remove the oil filler cap? You can do this without cutting any lines by removing an existing vacuum hose at or near the manifold, installing the removed line and the vacuum gauge on two legs of a "T" fitting, then adding a short piece of hose to reconnect the last leg of the "T " where the original hose was.
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Old 03-08-2006, 10:25 PM   #49
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unfortionatly i dont have a vaccum guage to do it with the only thing i have right now is a compression tester and im pretty sure it wont work as a vaccum guage
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Old 03-08-2006, 11:12 PM   #50
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Make some phone calls. Some auto parts houses rent stuff for free. If you have to buy one, a vacuum gauge is the least expensive gauge you can buy. A new one at Autozone is $16. When we compare your vacuum readings with a car in good operating condition, we will know whether or not to keep looking for vacuum leaks. If your reading at idle is normal, we know to look elsewhere. If it is lower than it should be, we can use the gauge to help you locate any external leaks. If you have two vacuum lines leaking, it might be very difficult to locate them otherwise.

If the idle change/oil cap symptom persists, the problem is a vacuum leak somewhere. If it is not external, like a hose, or PCV, then it is internal like a bad gasket, or worn valve guides and valve stem seals. If we have to go after the internal stuff, it is gonna cost a lot more than $16.
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