I would think that is possible if the TPS is going bad. When you chnged the TPS, did you adjust it? IIRC, on older 3800'* the TPS needs to be adjusted and it can be pretty sensitive if not done right.

Have you replaced the engine temp sensor? This will throw wild readings to the computer if it'* bad.

ok im still here i didnt make any progress yesterday because it was my sisters bday and i had to get everything set up and it was really hectic. Today i went out and the throttle stuck again i put it in neutural shut the car off turned the car back on and it was fine again. now when i pull the vaccum line off of the purge valve the idle goes up and the rough idle is there. if i pull a vaccum line off the firewall the idle stays the same and isnt effected even if i dont have my finger over the hole. not sure what that means but hopefully it will help

the tps is brand new and i had a shop adjust it to make the check engine go out . now i have the check engine back right before the car decides to go by it self and as soon as i hit the gas (throttle still sticks but check engine goes out).
or put it in neutural and turn it off and turn it back on real quick its fine again.

I have never looked at the computers in these cars. My truck (F150) I check every summer as it has electrolytic capacitors that will eventually leak and fail, so I replace them if any of them look bad (They dome up on the top of the cap) or leaked (brown gooey residue at the base of the cap)

If these computers use electrolytic caps then I would suggest examining the computer as well as cleaning the connector and lubing the seal yearly. You just might have a wee bit of corrsion in the connector causing these fluctuations in voltages. Grab a can of electronic contacts cleaner from Adv. Auto. or an electronics store. It should be about $3.00.

I'm glad to hear you cleaned your grounds, whomever recommended that gets a star
Thats always a good practice in my book!

Best Wishes!
Tim

adjusted the tps today so no more codes or check engine but still the rough idle and stalling. i ordered an evap purge valve today from the dealer since no one else carrys it. it should be here by wednesday

Hopefully, that helps. It sure sounds like that is one of your issues. Let us know...

i had pulled off all the other vaccum lines and none of them made the idle go high and rough except the one for the purge valve

i got the purge valve and the problem still exists fallowed the vaccum lines back to a junction box kinda thing infront of the throttle body the vaccum line for the brakes goes into it too now when i pull the vaccum off the purge the idle goes up for the car when i pull it off the brake booster the idle stays the same. any ideas why one would do it when the other wont when they are both coming from the same vaccum sorce?

I am having trouble understanding what you are doing with the vacuum lines, and it makes a big difference. Can you be more specific please?

It depends on what you are doing with the line coming from the vacuum source.

If you pull off a line that connects to a device and plug it with your finger so that the engine cannot suck air through the line you just removed, and the idle improves, that tells you that when that line is attached to the device, air is being sucked through the device or stuff attached to it.

If you pull off a line that connects to a device and do not plug it, so that the engine can suck air through the pipe, and the idle does not change, then the device is open to the atmosphere somewhere or has a leak.

What you would normally expect to happen is when you pull off a line and plug it with your finger, there should be no change. If you leave the end open, the idle should change.

Hope Lash can continue help as I will be gone tomorrow.