cleaned the grounds today i found them after about 15 minutes of looking their up further on my car neer the hood pop handel i cleaned them all out sanded the 2 that are screwed into the car because they were all corroded put everything back together and the problem is still there. Now on my evap canister which one of the 2 hoses do you want me to pull off to test it the top one that if i put my finger over it its got suction?

i pulled off the top vaccum line on the canister it had suction i put my finger over it and the car cleared up nicely but when i kept it sealed off and pulled off the oil cap the problem was still there.

To make sure I am understanding you correctly here - was the idle rough before you pulled the hose off? Did it then clear up when you blocked off the suction with your finger?

If so, you have a bad purge valve or a vacuum leak in the evap canister system or the PCM is cycling the valve when it should not (not as likely)

The fact that the oil cap problem persists could be explained by the PCM re-learning to compensate for the original leak as others have suggested.

i pulled off the line plugged it up and started the car
it was smooth as hell pulled off the oil cap and the rough idle was there. un plugged the vaccum line and the put the oil cap back on and it had a rough idle. should i just replace the purge valve?

Sounds like you have found a vacuum leak. Good.

Could be a bad valve or it could be a short to ground or a bad PCM. Here is the diagnostic chart.

When you unplugged the vacuum line as described above, did you reconnect it to the charcoal canister? With the oil cap on, and the hose attached to the charcoal canister was the idle smooth or rough?

afterwords i reconnected it with the oil cap on and it felt like the car was missing a little bit and when i pulled it off again and put my finger over it was much smoother

Okay. The FSM does say that the PCM can call for a purge when warm and idling, but I don't think that'* what happening here. I think that you should remove the purge valve from the canister, unplug the electrical connector from it, and see if the canister vacuum connection on the valve sucks when the car is idling and the vacuum hose is connected to the purge valve. If it sucks, it is bad.

I would suggest you make the same test (remove hose and plug) with the engine idling with every vacuum line that is connected to your intake manifold and throttle body (with the exception of the hose to the FPR) to see if you find any other leaks. I have a sneaky suspicion that you may be dealing with more than one leak.

will do when it gets light out tomarow

i personally think the computer is friend i have a check engine now that comes on once in a while. The codes i get are 21 and 22 tps voltage high and tps voltage low how is it possible that i have high and low voltage lol.