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Old 03-22-2013, 12:10 PM   #21
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Apologies for not responding earlier and appreciate all responses.

All Specs and Numbers below are for '94-'95 H-Body GMs

Issue was PCM...
PCM/ECM Part Number 16183247 / 590-03576 will also work while searching on eBay
Was a very easy switch, disconnect battery for at least 5 minutes, drop the underdash kick-panel, remove the wires, push PCM up hard, push back on clips and wiggle down and out. Replacement slips up and in and snaps in place. If you change the ePROM from your old one you DO NOT have to do a Security ReLearn...
What is the Security Relearn Procedure? - 3800Pro.com Forum

What lead me to the PCM after everything else I had tried was I was unable to retrieve any codes while bridging across Pins 9-5
https://www.gmforum.com/1992-1999-91...k-here-260037/
PCM came outta un-wrecked '93 LeSabre with 302k miles on it. I wanted to find one in a wrecked vehicle because I knew it woulda been working when the car stopped.
As the guy at one of the yards says - " he has lots of people ask if the transmission/engine is good in that wrecked vehicle and his response is 'well, they sure as (heck) weren't pushing it that fast when it stopped!"

Fuel Pressure was marginal
Specs for Fuel Pressure are (along with my measured values)
  • 30psi-34psi while idling (vehicle ran at 31psi)
  • 47psi in prime with return line restricted (vehicle was at 41psi UN-restricted - I'll be checking in the future with return restricted)
  • 41psi-47psi after prime with key off (vehicle was at 37psi...this could be due to not restricting while priming)
Car runs fine at these pressures.

Due to the low cost of PCMs for these (mine was $30 that I pulled) I want to make a separate post with a title similar to "Check your PCM with these symptons..." and post a concise chronology of what I have been thru.

What do you guys think about that?
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:51 PM   #22
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and oh...I did find a FUEL PUMP RELAY

It is in the passenger side kickpanel - 4th slot down closest to the front of the vehicle.

It was fine...
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:33 PM   #23
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I have heard that the PCM has a fuel injector circuit or something that can go bad, that may have been what failed on your PCM, I am glad you found the issue though, thanks for updating us with your findings.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:36 PM   #24
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Yes, I have seen the Fuel Injector Circuit in the PCM diagrams...
Thanks for the help. Just very frustrating figuring this one out.

Does the team see an issue with me making a post with a chronological description of the issues as well as me stating to Jump ahead to try the PCM?
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wafloydiii View Post
pulled my VATS By-Pass Resistor pack off, reconnected the wires and the thing started...multiple times!
How close is the resistance of the pack of resistors to the values in the table that someone gave later? It'* supposed to be within 5% or 10% iirc.

From what you posted it sounds like the resistor circuit you made was removable. Is it soldered in to the wires that go to whatever does the VATS resistance check? You might be getting irregular resistance at the connections otherwise. My wires were so fine, only a few filaments of copper thread, that soldering was the only way to do it.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:38 PM   #26
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[QUOTE=imidazol97;1578483]How close is the resistance of the pack of resistors to the values in the table that someone gave later? It'* supposed to be within 5% or 10% iirc.QUOTE]

I've waited a while to post again - driving it for a week and all is good. To re-iterrate, it was the PCM.

The VATS bypass pack was at 2380 Ohms while the key measured at 2370 Ohms which matches pellet number 8. I had put bullet style connectors on the end as referenced in the thread on forum.

https://www.gmforum.com/oldsmobile-1...ro-2dr-299957/

Peace Guys...now, on to the next issue for the vehicle.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:05 PM   #27
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Those vehicles were subject to the wire breaking in the steering column from the key cylinder to the vats module. Now knowing the resistance from the nice post or resistor values. read the resistance with an ohm meter. Then get a resistor of the correct value and plug it into the vats ignition key harness connector under the dash and try to start it. I think your problems will be fixed
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:37 PM   #28
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Hi Debbie
The issue here was a PCM. What led to the thought that it was a VATS issue was that after checking the injectors (having to keep the key in the ON position) the car started.

After that I had read that one could get the VATS to eventually pickup the pellet resistance over a period of time. That is what led me to the VATS thought. I built the VATS bypass within 0.4% or code 8 on the chart and teh car still did not start. But, for some damn reason did after removing the bypass.

If you read the full string of actions taken in an earlier posting you will see a transition to lead me to determining it was actually an issue of the injectors not firing as they should due to a bad PCM.

Thanks for your posting...and good luck in your life of GM!
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:53 AM   #29
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Hi to everyone I just want to say that after putting a heater core /transistor/blower motor/on my 98 Bonneville I am having problems with my ignition last week I noticed it stall on me another day it backfire and I couldn't turn it towards me only to start it well Friday driving it home and my speedometer was going faster then I was so I get home parked it and I smell something burning plastic? I turn the car off and restart it: nothing : it wont turn no sound of anything. I know I can change the ignition but I too want to bypass the vats step by step would be helpful .Thanks
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:46 AM   #30
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