No hole that I saw, so that means out it goes. That code must have already been turned off in my
PCM, because we didn't have time to turn it off before I left your place and I haven't seen anything yet. I don't know which will be more exciting, the extra power I'm going to have, or having my vehicle with remote start again! It'* going to be sitting over in a friends shop till I can come back next weekend, looks like I'm going to have to dig my truck out of my grandparents yard.. 2wd in 2ft of snow with the back tires in a mud rut.

Unplug the EGR, if you don't throw a code, then out it goes, saves a few pounds of weight.

I was collecting all the torque specs that I'm going to need for tonight, but still can't find the toruqe for the superchargers tensioner. Does anybody have this? Also the tensioner/alt bracket (I think that'* what it is) that has the coolant elbows. Torque specs on that?

Put a little locktite on and give it a good tighten. It'* not a gasket surface so it'* not as important that it'* perfect.

Well guys, I'm almost done. Unfortunately neither of the new belts fit.... still a few inches short it seems. Another thing I'm concerned with is the pressure building up in the valve covers. I let it run for about 5 minutes to bleed the cooling system and warm up the oil for another oil change, and when I shut it off I could hear the pressure escaping around the gasket for the oil filler cap. When I took it off there was a lot of pressure built up that came hissing out. Could that be what cracked the front one before? Do I need to get a breather?

If you guys blocked off the PCV System then you need a breather for sure, I though the ZZP intercooler were revised to keep that working, Did you buuy the LIM from ZZP?

No I didn't, it'* a ported LIM Dan had. I read through this article at zzp, seems to hit the nail right on the head. http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...les1.php?id=42

So I know I need to order a valve cover breather, and the engine still needs tuned. I'm going to go to the auto stores tomorrow to try and find a belt that work for the SC. 685 and 680 from ZZP do not fit, they are still a few inches short even though the 685 says its for my setup. Anyone know the appropriate belt to use with a stage 2 IC and 3.3 pulley?

I got the IC pump hooked up and pumping, had to adjust the clamps a bit. I've got plenty of pictures I'll put up soon. I'm going to have to try and rig up some kind of breather tomorrow, probably attach a small filter to the oil filler extension just to get me by until I get the breather.

If I had known the PCV hole is offset I could have drilled that out. When you were here I tried putting on a stock length belt, 725 and that didn't fit. however, we were fighting the tensioner bolt.

I would consider the breather to be a temporary solution, you should plan to fix the PCV system.

At this point I would have to agree, it would seem like having the PCV system blocked off would hurt gas mileage, plus I've got gasses where they don't necessarily belong.

Found a belt at o'reilly'* that fits perfect, also picked up a breather that is temporarily gorilla taped to the filler.
Before

After

There was no shortage of tools

I could have easily parked my car in the back of this truck with plenty of room to spare. You can't see the rest of it, there is quite a bit that didn't fit in the picture.

I took plenty of pictures in case any other members need a replacing the valve covers / tensioner for the SC.
First thing, disconnect the battery. It would also be a good idea to remove both belts at this time to give yourself a little more room, they will need to come off later anyways.

Then it'* out with the coil packs. Disconnect the plug wires, remove the harness. It shares a nut on the left stud with the tensioner, then has another bolt on the right.

Remove the studs for the tensioner, I used a 1/4 socket, and they were standard thread.

Tensioner removed.

Disconnect this harness

Remove the bolt to free this ground up.

Unplug the injectors.

Disconnect all the sensors.

Unplug the alternator.

(Is your battery disconnected?) Remove the power cable for the alternator, then these bolts.




Alternators gone.

Drain the coolant.

This has to come out.



Might as well replace the coolant elbows, they are cheap and chances are they need replacement. Make sure you get any pieces of the coolant elbow out that stayed behind.


Get these out of the way.


There should now be plenty of room for removing and reinstalling the valve covers. Your going to want a torque wrench to ensure you get the correct torque when reinstalling them.

I would also like to give a big thanks to everyone who helped me through this process, giving advice and tips. It was greatly appreciated!