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Old 10-19-2007, 09:15 PM   #31
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OK, so atleast now i have a decent idea or what i am looking for. Any places anyone can recommend?


I am going to take a look at dremels tomorrow.


No rush bill, when you get sometime.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:17 PM   #32
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http://www.toolbarn.com/category/dre...y-cutter-bits/

How about those


Something like these to smoothen up the inlet of the supercharger?
http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/114/

What about the outlet, what does everyone recommend.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:19 PM   #33
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iv used this before http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/D-9903/
for cutting Computer cases. worked ok.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:34 PM   #34
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This FTW:


Long cutter, radiused end so it won't dig in and produce a straight deep cut at the end.
Also small diameter so the inside corners of the LIM runner outlets match the inside corner radius of the cylinder head.



Worthless:


For L67 and L36 LIMs, this isn't going to do much for you. POSSIBLY for L27 LIM runners.



On this page:
http://www.toolbarn.com/category/dre...y-cutter-bits/

The best I would select (based on my preferences from past experience with superchargers and LIM'*):

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/D-9903/ (great for inside corners and 'shaving' for finish work)

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/134/ (very handy for coarse material removal and working the inside corners of L36 runners)

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/116/ (good for opening up a chamfer blend on the INSIDE of L67 runners from the OUTSIDE).

Don't forget, polishing is cool, but won't really gain you much performance if you get a nice finish with a carbide. Polishing well MAY help reduce the buildup of EGR and PCV crap over time.

Sanding drums are a PITA to change, and aren't really needed if you work it carefully with these carbide bits.

Do NOT over-port. You want the finished LIM outlet to be equal to or slightly LESS than the width and height of the head ports (approximately 1.9 by .9 inches). SLIGHTLY break or round sharp exits and entrances. If you do that on the cylinder head while installed on the engine, STUFF THAT port with paper towels or small bits of rags, seal off the lifter valley, and use magnets and VERY careful techniques to pull the stuffing and clean up.

As mentioned by a couple of us in this topic, oil will lengthen the life of carbide cutters almost indefinitely when used for aluminum.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:38 PM   #35
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Your best bet may be to buy the tool on ebay and then pick up a genuine bit or two at Sears or some other store that carries genuine Dremel bits. Alternatively, many of the tools on ebay are sold with their kits, and the kits typically have several bits and/or accessories included with them. Usually these are genuine dremel. Search for
Quote:
Dremel multipro
or
Quote:
Dremel multipro kit.
I think variable speed is the way to go. If you search for just Dremel, you will get over a thousand hits, mostly junk bits.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:39 PM   #36
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Bill, i think there may be a little confusion. I already have a ported LIM. This is mostly for practicing on a supercharger for my brothers car/ and my L67 build up, but i will also be doing the LIM'* for them and a L67 TB for my NA build up (just making it fit like 95nasta did)
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:47 PM   #37
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Same thing applies. The long bit Bandit and I mentioned is invaluable on the outlet of a SC. Long bit with the rounded end.

That wedge reverse-tapered one will make it a little easier to break that sharp edge down INSIDE the outlet of the SC (edge closer to the rotors).

Not application-specific, think more like 'cut location and ACCESS' specific (bit selection). Make sense? Breaking the inside of the L67 LIM runners is very similar to the INSIDE of the outlet of a SC, because you have to cut a surface on the inside from the outside.

The rounder one (egg-shaped) is the perfect size for cleaning up the inside corners of the SC outlet.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:58 PM   #38
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That makes a lot of sense. I appriaciate all the feedback bill.
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