Talk to me about dremels and bits - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


General GM Chat When starting new posts, please specify YEAR, MAKE, MODEL, ENGINE type, and whatever modifications you have made. Chat about all things GM (and related cars). Off-topic stuff should be in the Lounge, and all Model specific mechanical problems should be posted in the proper forum.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-19-2007, 11:47 AM   #21
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

If you look at the description on the aluminum oxide (this is the material they're made for) it states STAINLESS STEEL as the only material they actually named. And it'* not easy to find.

It may be stated on the packaging. I couldn't tell you that.

I CAN tell you that every machinist and professional welder in the world knows this as common knowledge and safety practice.

In fact, here at HP, and at our two local colleges, every grinder in each shop is clearly posted in this manner. DO NOT GRIND ALUMINUM, BRASS, OR OTHER NON-FERROUS METALS.

Most of these stones are aluminum oxide or silicon carbide.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2007, 11:56 AM   #22
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

You can all remain fixated on Dremel'* data (they're French if memory serves me) or you can research this yourself to see if I'm blowing smoke up your .

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/grinding.htm

http://www.safetycenter.navy.mil/afl...ch_grinder.htm

US NAVAL SAFETY CENTER WROTE:

Quote:
Several submarines surveyed in fiscal year 2005 had mechanically unsafe bench grinders. Discrepancies included 65.6% misaligned/missing tool rests, 75.0% broken/missing point of operation guards (chip shield), and 54.8% worn grinding wheels; most with embedded, unauthorized, non-ferrous materials. Embedded metals in grinding wheels can cause them to fly apart at high RPMs. Usually the embedded materials are non-ferrous, and should not have come in contact with the grinder in the first place. These conditions could lead to serious personnel injury. Inspect your bench grinder to ensure it is safe for operation.
I don't have time to find 20 more links to convince you. I'm doing my best to express a very grave concern aboutg the safety of our members who may use the wrong tool for aluminum.

Please take the time to search on terms for yourself such as 'safety non-ferrous metal grinding' or other related terms.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2007, 12:19 PM   #23
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 533
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Greyhare is on a distinguished road
Default

No one in their right mind would use a grinder on non-ferrous metal.
Note that Dremel limits the speed to 40%. My bet is they can't stop people from using the wrong tool so they try to keep it spinning slow enough to prevent disintegration.
Greyhare is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2007, 02:22 PM   #24
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 509
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Barry is on a distinguished road
Default

If you don't have a Dremel yet, there are many available on Ebay along with accessories. I second the opinion on the flex shaft...it can be very useful. Read ads carefully, expecially if you buy accessories. There are many cheap imitations listed. Try to buy genuine Dremel.
Barry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2007, 02:30 PM   #25
Senior Member
Posts like a Camaro
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Jenison, MI (Near Grand Rapids)
Posts: 1,070
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
theJMFC is on a distinguished road
Default

Keep in mind though that the Craftsman "Dremel" IS a Dremel-made unit. It has to be, as identical they are (though I can't prove it anymore...). Not sure if they are a bit cheaper or not.

The cheaper ones look the same, but do tend to go up in smoke rather quickly.
theJMFC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2007, 05:44 PM   #26
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wickliffe, Ohio
Posts: 2,155
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
McGrath is on a distinguished road
Default

Iíve had great success with those aluminum oxide stones, never had one blow up on me. When I did my Gen5 LIM I used one of those stones on the entire LIM to rough out most of the material with ease and had no problems with it loading up. TJ asked for opinions I gave mine based from my experience with my Dremel.

I also forgot to mention make sure you have a good pair of safety glasses and a dust mask at least while you P&P.

Ed
McGrath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2007, 06:15 PM   #27
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

Safety glasses will protect your eyes. Not your whole face and neck.

You can continue to use them on the premise that you've never had one blow, or you can listen to the warnings in this topic from those of us that do this kind of work on a daily basis.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2007, 06:21 PM   #28
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 533
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Greyhare is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by McGrath
Iíve had great success with those aluminum oxide stones, never had one blow up on me.
If you run them as slow as Dremel says to you probobly never will. They do not cut very efficiently at that slow of a speed but the stress on them is low.

If you speed them up to where they actualy cut well, you will have a time bomb in your hand.
Greyhare is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2007, 07:21 PM   #29
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: plattsburgh NY
Posts: 2,037
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
TJ'sblackbonne is on a distinguished road
Default

Ok, so far i have got. Get a true demel and not a cheap knock off brand. And get a carbid bit with a rounded edge lol.

http://cgi.ebay.com/14-carbide-drill...QQcmdZViewItem


Something kinda like those?


Keep the ideas, comments, ect coming. This is helping. I am knew to what kind of bits to get, ect. Any links and pictures would help alot (carbid bits, and polishing wheels). Thank guys
TJ'sblackbonne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2007, 08:06 PM   #30
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

SOMETHING like those, yes. THOSE? No. Cheap chinese knockoffs. You get what you pay for.

Buy Dremel or Craftsman brand. You don't need a whole set. There are 2 or 3 that I use the most.

I'll post 'em up later when I have more time.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Drill Bits Chinski Lounge 1 03-05-2007 01:33 PM
The Weird news bits. popatim Lounge 1 08-11-2006 10:19 PM
Torx bits we need? McGrath General GM Chat 6 03-01-2006 05:08 PM
Another one bits the dust 1992 trofeo General GM Chat 5 01-15-2004 10:18 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:38 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.