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Old 10-18-2007, 11:47 PM   #1
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Default Talk to me about dremels and bits

I am planning some porting and polishing this winter and would like to know everyones opinion on what dremel and bits to pick up. I know carbide bits are recommened but i am a little unsure on which ones work the best ect. Thanx guys
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:52 PM   #2
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Nothing with a FLAT end. All carbide cutters you buy should have a rounded end to keep it from cutting in and grooving.
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Old 10-19-2007, 12:04 AM   #3
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Do you maybe (or can you find) have a picture of a "TJ dont buy this bit", and "TJ this is the bit style you need" lol.
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Old 10-19-2007, 01:10 AM   #4
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I've come to like the cone shaped Aluminum Oxide grinding stones. I found them good and forgiving to use for smoothing out the sand cast finish on things (such as the runners on my Gen5 LIM )

They should look similar to this one.


If you have a store like Harbor Freight by you go in there and buy one of their cheap assorted accessory sets for a rotary tools; and go to town on the Gen3 housing I sent you. The best thing to do is just experiment to see the strengths of each tool.
Don't beat on your Dremel to much Iíve had my XPR smoking and burning the hell out of my hand b4 I turned it off to let it cool; but it keeps going.


Ed
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Old 10-19-2007, 02:50 AM   #5
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As for the tool itself, I'd go for something with a few speeds, or variable speed. Skip the cordless (less speed, wimpy). I own a Dremel, but Black and Decker makes a decent looking one called the Wizard (or at least they did).

If I were going to do anything serious, I'd probably get myself an air-powered mini die grinder... Dremel works, but the bits can be a bit small, so it takes time to cover any large areas of work.

EDIT: Removed strong endorsement of the suggested bit, since apparently they can explode when loaded up with aluminum. They did work good for me at times though.

Happy Grinding!
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:54 AM   #6
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I found the best bit inside the casing for smoothing the rough sand casting is an 80 grit and 120 grit flap wheel. You get a couple of each and it'* off to the smoothing you go.

XPR'* are pretty good since they have variable speed and you can go crazy or take your time. The biggest thing I've learned to keep from smoking a dremel is don't use excessive force on the bits. Let the bit and time do the work instead of you pushing down. Also..the flexshaft is a wonderful tool.

Check your dremel often for heat. If it heats up..bring the speed up and let it run free for a minute.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:10 AM   #7
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You know what, I don't have a dremel per say, Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I've heard so much about them. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, do they ever go on sale for like 75% off?

I know what you're all thinking,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Yes, I do.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McGrath
I've come to like the cone shaped Aluminum Oxide grinding stones. I found them good and forgiving to use for smoothing out the sand cast finish on things (such as the runners on my Gen5 LIM )

They should look similar to this one.


If you have a store like Harbor Freight by you go in there and buy one of their cheap assorted accessory sets for a rotary tools; and go to town on the Gen3 housing I sent you. The best thing to do is just experiment to see the strengths of each tool.
Don't beat on your Dremel to much Iíve had my XPR smoking and burning the H*** out of my hand b4 I turned it off to let it cool; but it keeps going.


Ed
Not that aluminum oxide stone. That'* the last bit you should use on aluminum.

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT

Porous stone abrasives will fill with soft aluminum, heat up, and expand, blowing up in your face. The number one rule in grinding in metal shops and welding shops is NEVER use a grinding stone for aluminum unless it'* RATED for it, and is typically a wet process.

Dremel doesn't offer a grinding 'stone' bit that is rated for aluminum. They should never be used for this purpose.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
The number one rule in grinding in metal shops and welding shops is NEVER use a grinding stone for aluminum unless it'* RATED for it, and is typically a wet process..
Previous post deleted and edited by Boost.

EdIt: Researched the Dremel site.

"941 Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone
A high-quality industrial abrasive made for extended general-purpose grinding on metals, castings, welded joints, rivets and rust. "

There is no warning about explosions or not using on aluminum. The instruction manual for the XPR specifically states many possibilies of harm if not followed properly with no mention of the aluminum oxide bit being bad on aluminum. In fact it recommends the best speed for the 941 bit in aluminum specifiically is a 4.

This myth of exploding bits has been busted on Page 12 of the Dremel XPR owners manual downloadable on their site. Please follow proper use, operation and safety procedures whenever using tools like this.

Dremel Literature Page
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:54 AM   #10
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This is common knowledge and a major safety practice for machinists and welders worldwide. Those that work in these fields know what I'm talking about.



Quote:
NEVER grind soft metals (bronze, zinc, copper) on wheels designed for hard metal. The grinder is normally set up for grinding hard metals, i.e. steel. Soft metals can become incorporated within the wheel resin, causing overheating and subsequent wheel disintegration. If you need to grind soft metals, see the shop tech
http://www.virginia.edu/art/studio/*...nchgrinder.htm



Aluminum oxide stones and wheels are not meant for soft metals. They are meant for ferrous metals like Steel and Iron.

http://www.ind.carborundumabrasives....g%20Wheels.pdf

In spite of the silicon carbide suggestion in that article, if the aluminum gets hot enough and starts to fill the stone or wheel, STOP USING IT AND THROW IT AWAY.
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