Bill, thanks....I guess I didn't explain myself well enough. When I complete a brake job I always rotate, turn, what ever you want to call it, just to check to see if the rotor is sitting against the hub properly. While in the rotating motion I notice whether the pad is grabbing ever so slightly against the rotor surface, I can then see if I have a run out problem. At that point I investigate further.

Oh...I thought you were having another screen door incident.

That only happens once a year Bill.

was the hub face cleaned and the hub mating surface cleaned well BEFORE the rotors were cut?

You can do a test stop using the e-brake to see if its really the rear brakes causing the problem.

Exactly whgat I did tonight and guess what.........pulse......pulse............pulse.... ....

Car shakes like he## when I applie the brakes at speeds of 40 mph or more. Now I used the e-brake only and had a very distinctive pulse feel in the pedal and the car shook a bit. By turning I mean of course the rotors were machined. They were cleaned up pretty good, and the hub was clean as was the backside of the rotors.

Now I have never done rear discs....so my next question is how different of a job is it over the fronts?

And Frank, just to let you know, the screen door was always a bitch to open and close until you "fixed" it for me......you must have put it back on it'* proper track! Now can you do the same for me with my brakes?

I'm not if the Bonne'* use the leader/follower system thats in my wifes Olds, if so then they are almost as easy as the front disc'* and alot easier than the the old style drum brakes you might have done before, the one with all the springs...

Brian,

You will need to pick up another tool. It'* used to turn in the caliper. On rear brakes they tyipcally are a threaded setup.

Off to find a pic, picy not working.. here'* a linky

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0...0&op_sharpen=1

Bill'* right. The only real difference from front to back (other than dealing with the parking brake cable) is the piston. Use a large C clamp to compress the pads slightly to be able to swing the caliper up and off. Instructions say no more than 1 mm or damage could result. Then spin the piston clockwise into the bore using that tool. Some use pliers of one type or another to spin it in, but you have to be careful not to damage the boot.

Lisle 28600