Seems like EVERY time I have someone else put tires on my car, I wind up losing either a center cap or a lugnut cap within the next two times I drive the car. Recently I had my dealership do a 90K mile service on my car which included brake inspections, and they replaced the rear wheel cylinders. The next day I took the car to a tire dealer to get two new tires with explicit written instructions to NOT BREAK MY LUGNUT CAPS.

The written instructions apparently had *some* effect, because the tire shop guy called me to tell me that 5 or 6 of my lug nut caps were already cracked, and insisted that his guys didn't do it, and that someone must have used an air gun on them. Well the only people who might have done that would have to have been my dealership, and I have a hard time believing they'd actually do that, but then again, you never know.

In any case, I thanked him for letting me know, and immediately placed an order with my dealership for ten new lugnut caps. (I like to keep a few spares.)

However they seem to have ignored my other written request to put the wheel weights on the *INSIDE* rim of the wheels.

MORAL: In the future, before I take my car anywhere where they will be taking off the wheels, I'm going to take off my lugnut caps first, and put them back on when I get the car back.

I usually jack mine directly from the A-arm assembly, and place the jack stand right next to the pivot point on the A-arm or on the subframe.

I would not suggest using a scissor jack to raise the whole side of the car. Even if it is only a minute or two. I don't think it would be very stable. What is the weight rating on it. It was meant to lift one corner of the car at a time.

If you don't want to spend the money on having the tires rotated, atleast spend the money to get a floor jack. They are actually pretty handy all the time.

I see there'* been discussion and should probably elaborate.

When I jack a car with my floor jack, the front is lifted by the subframe being careful not to touch the oil pan. Jackstands are placed under the actual subframe itself as well.

The back is lifted from the framework between the two rear tires being careful not to hit the exhaust. Stands are placed somewhere in that general area that is sturdy.

Now.. using the jack provided with the car is always more dangerous. Simply looking at it shows us..it'* not heavy duty. When jacking with it.. the instructions with it say use drip edges. Also..the edges are very strong and if you had a floor jack it should have wheels ... it should roll in or out and not bend the endge.

I have always just gone front to back. I usually have to get them rotated every 2 months due to the mileage been put on them. That is a regular thing I do. The tires wore pretty evenly. Now my new tires, I got the Triple Tread tires from Goodyear and those are directional.



As for lifting from the drip edge, I never trust it. On my Malibu, when I am switching from winter to summer tires, for the rear I simple use my class II hitch to place the jack under. As for the front, I use the place where the sub-frame bolts to the rest of the car. Same for the Bonneville, I use the place where it bolts, it is nice and round and my floor jack fits perfectly. Of course you need a real floor jack, not those little small ones, if you wanna reach under there properly.

Well I fubared my drip edge using a floor jack not too long ago, but I dont really have a "floor" perse, I have dirt, so the jack doesnt really roll, hence the fubaring.

But you should be fine lifting anywhere on the subframe, I dont remember the good jacking points on my Bonneville, because I didnt work on it near as much as I did this car, but stick with the subframe of the vehicle, and use the emergency jack on the drip edges if you must, but pleeeeease use some jack stands once you get it in the air.

I personally try to avoid jacking onto suspension components on cars like these, but thats just personal preference.