view pics here for story line: http://statusplease.info/ssei.html

NEED answers to Quesitons 1 - 6 soon please, thank you all in advance.

Question 3: That would be the vacuum line going into your charcoal canister. Go to your local automotive supply store and just buy like a foot of rubber vacuum line of the same size, and cut it into like 2" sections and replace all rubber couplers like shown. Those need to be vacuum tight, or you'll have a vacuum leak, which can cause problems.

Question 4: That is your transmission modulator. It controls the shifts of your transmission. That connection above it is a vacuum line, and needs to be connected. Once again, I would recommend replacing the rubber coupler.

Wait for others to chime in for other issues, don't have time at the moment to reply but if no one does by tomorrow, I'll take a stab at it for you.

1. If you don't want to take off the SC, don't do anything beyond wiping out what you can with a dry cloth.

2. Inspect your original. If the rubber looks fine, reuse it. If not, go get the right gasket.

3. Get some fresh vacuum tubing on it.

4. Tranny vacuum modulator. Get some fresh tubing for it also. And you can replace it for cheap with an adjustable one to possibly fix any soft shifting you may have. The new one will be a lot smaller, so don't be alarmed.

5. Check valve. Put the end you can blow through towards the vacuum modulator. If you can blow through both ends the same, get a new one.

6. HVAC blower motor drain tube. Just letting it sit in place should be OK. Although there should be some more rubber on the end which could get into the blower blades and mess it up if it'* still in the blower motor.

q1- clean it. remove sensors and clean with tb cleaner. clean maf only with maf cleaner, never carb cleaner or anything aggressive like that.

q2- that is the wrong gasket. that is for a series 2 L36 (i believe)

q3- as prev stated, go to parts store and buy new vac lines. only about $1.50 per foot.

q4- same as #3, you can use zip ties if you want to go the extra mile, when you put the new vac lines on, but not "needed". clamps are overkill.

q5- looks like a vac check valve, idk what it goes to though

Cooling tube... that makes more sense.

#6 Either get one from a junkyard for pennies (then you can see how it is supposed to fit) or buy a new one from the dealer, but don't run with the cooler hose disconnected. Otherwise, the blower motor will suck up HOT air from the area around the rear exhaust manifold instead of COOL air from the inside of the duct (fed from the screened area at the bottom of the windshield). This will result in a premature $50 blower motor replacement instead of a $5 cooling tube change.

the tube is fine, its the part that that cooling tube goes ON TO, that BROKE OFF of the firewall.. ( if you notice the nipple is IN the tube, and should be affixed to the firewall.

If the nipple broke off the heater duct, perhaps you could repair it using high temperature copper RTV silicone. That stuff is good for 700F. Can you get the nipple out of the hose without damaging it? Give the silicone a day to cure and replace the tube.

If you can repair it successfully, consider fabricating a heat shield from heavy aluminum foil to keep the manifold heat from baking the tube and the blower motor.