That is the intent. SEi FTW

Haha heck yeah man!

The valley does look clean.

Last night I went out and bought new gaskets, coolant elbows etc for it. Got most of everything reinstalled except a few minor missing LARGE parts.

2 things I'm not really sure what to do about here...

1. The heater core pipes on the engine are different than mine. The one on the bottom I can deal with, but the top one points in the opposite direction. I have 2 original spares, but the pipe would get in the way for the bolt.

2. This alternator has a 3 wire system vs my 2 wire system. I don't think the connectors are even the same.




Also, considering I am short on L67 fuel injectors, would it be possible to tune this to use L36 injectors with HpTuners?

bonnies dont have the sense wire hooked up, so sometimes they are a little slow to react. you can hook it up to the post or hook it up to something in the fuse box if you want it to sense real voltage at the box.

The use of the "P", "F", and "*" terminals is optional. The "P" terminal is connected to the stator, and may be connected externally to a tachometer or other device. The "F" terminal is connected internally to field positive, and may be used as a fault indicator. The "*" terminal may be connected externally to a voltage, such as battery voltage, to sense the voltage to be controlled

This is the schematic for my current car, so what your saying is, as long as I connect terminals "F" and "L" and leave the 3 wire disconnected, I should be fine?

is the other one labeled *? if it is you might as well hook it to +12v

On the alternator?

yes, maybe on the plug or alt?

This is a 4 wire connector, but its only using 3 wires, from the looks of it,

RED is L
TAN is I or F
ORN is *
P no connect.