ok,i did put the passkey-II box back,and the wires are in a little protective orange sleeve,today i went to a locksmith that does deal with these ignition switch problems,they let me borrow a switch from a 1993 oldsmobile regency ninety eight just like mine,i was told to plug the one that he loaned to me into the little box on the driver side under the dash where my original key plugs went into and put my key in that switch he gave me ,then put my other key in my switch and then try and crank it,and if it didnt start then it was probably my switch,it didnt start and now he said it shouldve started but since it didnt it was most likely my module was bad but im like it just started doing the no start when key is turned about two weeks ago,but then we got started and it didnt do it again until last week monday,so please does anyone have an answer or soulution or should i buy a new switch,and if it is my module not the pass key-II module but the vats module the one that is suposed to be sitting right above the hump where the transmission is sitting how likely is it going to be that module,and not my switch?one more thing,my little brother said that the prongs were not touching the key contacts for the chip so he said he put a small piec of aluminum foil on and round his chip contacts and it started his car but then i tried it and a small little stream of white smoke like the width of a trail of ciggarette smoke came from the dash through the defroster vent on the driver side not a lot but a smalll stream what could have that been and is that making my problem worse?
THANKS GUYS

Geez, that was hard to read, but this is what I know:

Putting aluminum foil around the resistor pellet was a BAD idea. The PASSKEY system was not designed to accept shorted pellets...in fact, I bet it is part of the antitheft feature to completely fry itself if that ever happens.

Also, the modules "learn" the resistor pellets actual resistance upon initial power-on, and permanently stores it. Meaning, w/o matching keys to go with the module, you just cannot go to a junkyard and pull one and think it will work...it won't.

The VATS wires connect directly to the main ignition harness connector. Are you saying that you extracted the two original wires from the connector and inserted the ones from the loaner? Is it possible to get a pic of where you made this connection?


WTF? The VATS module (sometimes referred to as Pass Lock, Key, etc) is located behind the glove box... deep. You have to remove the dash to get at it.

Did the car crank but not start or no crank at all? Can you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds upon turning the ignition switch ON? The VATS disables both crank and fuel at the same time. If one is working but the other is not then it'* not a VATS problem.

Please don't start 4 topics for the same issue.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=66121