The breakers are generally pretty reliable. Works like a fuse, but will reset by itself if it is working properly. I found some breakers at the local Advance Auto Parts, hanging with the fuses. Do you have the window lock out feature?

Right now I have no window functions at all. No there is no window lock out. I just tested the circuit breaker, and it still has continuity. So judging by the wiring diagram, the next thing I will have to check is the relay.

We thought you were going to Austin. :?

I doubt if your problem is with the circuit breaker, relay or grounds since all 4 windows would have quit at the same time. I'd start by removing the driver'* side switches & making some checks there.

With the key on you should have 12 volts at the brown wire that connects to terminal F. Power here will eliminate the circuit breaker, fuse & relay.

Check for continuity with the switches in the neutral (middle) position.
You should have continuity between each of these terminals.
D&C
A&B
J&K
G&H

Then check for continuity with each switch in the up & down position.
Left Front – Up – Continuity at F&C and D&E
Left Front – Down - Continuity at F&D and C&E

Left Rear – Up – Continuity at F&J and K&E
Left Rear – Down - Continuity at F&K and J&E

Right Front – Up – Continuity at F&A and B&E
Right Front – Down - Continuity at F&B and A&E

Right Rear – Up – Continuity at F&G and H&E
Right Rear – Down - Continuity at F&H and G&E

There’* more we can check but let’* see what you get up to this point before we continue.

I will check continuity when I get home. In the mean time, i went to the junk ward and took out all of the relays. Couldn't hurt to have them. So the continuity check is with the switch itself or the mounting base that the switch goes to? The first thing i replaced was the switch and still had the same problem.

Checking for 12 volts is at the wire going to the switch all the continuity checks are the switch itself.

Ted, I did what you suggested. I have 12 volts at the brown wire and I have continuity between all of the other letters. What else do I need to check now?


********UPDATE************
I took the negative side of the battery off for about 10 minutes. When I connected everything back up, I now hear a clicking noise on the drivers side.

Check the resistance of the wires going to the other doors.
Right Front - Lt Blue & Tan that connect to terminals A&B
Right Rear - Lt Green & PPL that connect to G&H
Left Rear - DK Green & PPL that connect to J&K
Let'* also check the wires for the driver'* door. I'm not sure how the express down module will affect this reading. Gray & Dk Blue that connect to D&C.

Let'* also recheck the voltage going to the brown wire using the black wire that connects to terminal E as ground. (connect the positive meter lead to the brown wire & the negative meter lead to the black lead)

What are the odds that all of the power window motors going out? Well it happend to me. That is the cause of my problem. I just came back from the junk yard, and already replaced the drivers side, and it works fine. Go figure. :(

So when I took off the passenger side door panel, I was already frustrated from all of the windows not work, I took a hammer and banged the motor a coupl of times. And guess what? The motor started to work. It seems that is was locked up. I think the problem is solved.

You might want to try greasing the motors. Check out this thread.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...t=zerk&start=0