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Old 11-12-2006, 03:28 PM   #1
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ok,i looked under my steering colum and the 2 little white wires that comes from the ignition switch looks as if they had a lot of heat on them from what i dont know,could that be why my vats is engaging?and i found the pass key-II box it was just behind my glovebox,i did remove it,now if i do have to bypass it is could someone let me know what to do and give me some clear instructions.?

THANKS
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Old 11-12-2006, 03:39 PM   #2
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before we even try to suggest anything....can YOU please put the year of your, and the model and make....thank you
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Old 11-12-2006, 03:47 PM   #3
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VATS wires are white, tiny and under the steering column but they are enclosed in an orange coating. Kinda makes it look like one orange wire. There'* a miniscule amount of current flowing through them so even a dead short would not cause the wires to smoke. It would have to come from another source such as the under dash light bulb.

You can bypass the VATS by soldering in the appropriate resistor value to the right wires but you'll need to put the module back in it'* place. It communicates with the ECM or PCM via a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal.
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Old 11-14-2006, 05:07 PM   #4
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I'll answer your PMs publicly so that others mat benifit from the information and discussion. First, link to another topic which contain some information:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=66240


In your PMs you confirmed (sort of) that you removed the original VATS wires and replaced them with those from a loaner ignition switch. It'* important that the originals were removed otherwise the two resistances would be in parallel, thus dividing the key resistance in half (providing that they are equal).

You also asked where a resistor could/should be soldered in to bypass. Typically it is at the easiest location to get at with a soldering iron. With the information you've provided so far though, it seems that you have the car somewhat apart. In this case, I'd solder the appropriate resistor value directly to the "regular" wires. The ones that run from the back of the main ignition harness to the VATS module. They are WHI and PUR/WHI if I'm not mistaken. Actually, for better troubleshooting, use some alligator clips and temporarily make a good connection with the correct resistor value to those wires.
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