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Old 04-25-2006, 12:36 PM   #11
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It'* funny...I told Geoff to drop a resistor in line for his tail lamp issue. However..he probably has too much being pulled due to more lights.
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:32 PM   #12
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By the speed of the LED I meant that it turns on and off instantly as opposed to the more gradual turning off and on of an incandescent. Actually as I am typing this right now, I am working on an array to fit in the front signals....
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:06 AM   #13
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The 40 ohm 5 watt resistor, is the one that should fool the lamp monitor. The 4 diodes in the bridge array is what takes care of the polarity issue, and the 180 ohm is the limiting resistor that keeps the LED from blowing from too high of voltage/current.
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:11 AM   #14
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You have a load resistor (40ohm 5W) and a current limiting resistor The small one located closest to the LED (180 ohm 1/2W), is the current limiting resistor. That gives you about 66ma not counting the drop from the diodes. What is the Output of your LED? And did you also know what you can buy a cluster LED that would supply both your running and brake functions?

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Old 04-26-2006, 05:58 AM   #15
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The LED in using is good for 80mA max, I calculated the current using 14 volts just to allow for a power spike if it should occur.
As far as I know, you would have to build your own brake/running light LED circuit. It wouldn tbe very difficult, just make one circuit output max current, and the other about 60% current, or whatever your values are and put them in parallel. But youll need one power resistor for each circuit to fol the lamp monitor.

Heres an extremely quick idea of what I might replace the single LED with. THe leds will go all the way to the back of the light though.

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Old 04-26-2006, 11:23 AM   #16
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you can buy the same LED clusters that semis use. They are already set up and regulated and the whole 9 yards.

turn signal looks good.
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:07 PM   #17
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Looks good Justin-
I had a broken marker laying around that I tried to do somthing similar with. Have you tried anything with the side markers on the rear bumper?
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix_flame220
The LED in using is good for 80mA max, I calculated the current using 14 volts just to allow for a power spike if it should occur.
As far as I know, you would have to build your own brake/running light LED circuit. It wouldn tbe very difficult, just make one circuit output max current, and the other about 60% current, or whatever your values are and put them in parallel. But youll need one power resistor for each circuit to fol the lamp monitor.

Heres an extremely quick idea of what I might replace the single LED with. THe leds will go all the way to the back of the light though.
It looks good,What I was wondering is what is the output of the LED in micro candella (mcd)? I have made many different conversions for different application cars. (My degree is in electronics). I didn't realize this one was just for a cornering light (single brightness). I was thinking something like a conversion for a 1157 bulb or something. For LED'* if you don't want the instant on/off you can add a cap in parallel with the LED so that it has to charge and discharge making it look more like an incandesant bulb. I had more than one person tell me that my lights scared the crap out of them because they come on so fast. (78 El Camino) I took them out when some tried to steal them and fractured the 1/2" thick plexiglass I used to make them clear.

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Old 04-26-2006, 11:43 PM   #19
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I was thinking about those truck clusters... but Im going for the one of a kind approach.
The LED that I am currently using is a 30 degree 120,000 mcd pure white 10mm.
electronics degree eh... you will come in very handy :P I think you can buy 1157 bulbs in LED, with a dual brightness function. I personally love the fast flash of the LEDs, my favourite things about LEDs are th elow power draw, the fast flash, and finally pure white light.

Mike G : for the rear bumper side markers... I most definately DO have something for that. Im just looking for a glue that will stick to plexiglass and the hard plastic. JB weld doesnt seem to cut it.
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Old 04-27-2006, 12:07 AM   #20
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Here is the cluster I am talking about no truck stuff here. You can buy 11/57'* but I did this way before they were available, and most I have seen and tried are cheap and don't hold up.

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Here is with them on. This was a while ago Ithe dates on the camera came out in 2001, these are the same bulbs I just had these laying around.

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