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Old 08-29-2014, 12:50 PM   #1
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Default electric control of Driver AC?

My freon is new as of last July, hardly used the AC since. Besides the new england cold months, partly I haven't used it much because it'* not very cold. My carpets have been wet since spring, especially the front passenger area,. After not using AC at all for a hot late July and August it finally dried out a couple of weeks ago. At the same time the tailpipes stopped dripping condensate onto my driveway. So, research suggested a clogged AC evaporator tube. I had that blown out with air a couple of days ago. Then, testing the AC temp, it'* 49F on the passenger side but barely cool if at all on the driver side. So I found this:

Since you're not getting any cold air on the driver'* side, it appears that the left door is stuck in the non-cooling position. You may want to try resetting the system by pulling the fuse for the A/C system (or disconnecting the battery) since the unit performs a startup routine that moves all actuators to their extreme positions to calibrate them. If that doesn't work, then the actuator is dead and needs to be replaced. Not a major problem.

I figure that'* worth a try, since replacing the actuator is bound to be tricky non-DIY money. But where the heck is the fuse (if there is one)?
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:17 PM   #2
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Have you checked the actuator operation with the AC off?

Put it in vent position....this should keep the AC off....with car at normal operating temp, command full hot from vent registers....are they the same? Now command full cold.....are the temp readings the same? If yes, the actuators are working ok....if you have a dual system you will have to command each side full hot and full cold....

If the readings are the same with the AC off, then you are probably low on freon......even though you may have charged it last July, if you have a leak, this could happen....

If the condensate drain was not plugged, you should find the source of the water leak, or you could end up with a mildew smell.....the top of the carpet may be dry, but that jute backing could be soaked......remove the door sill trim, and put you hand under the carpet...if wet, this can create ground problems, harness problems(especially at soldered joints), and SIR problems(if the SDM is located under the passenger seat).........
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Old 08-30-2014, 04:28 AM   #3
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Adding a quote you received from your other thread.

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Originally Posted by 2kg4u View Post
A low refrigerant charge can give the same symptoms ... cold out the driver side and not so much out the passenger side.
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Old 08-30-2014, 01:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech II View Post
Have you checked the actuator operation with the AC off?
Thanks, OK, just did what you suggested on the actuator question, I think, maybe in reverse. I'm not sure what the "vent position" is, but all my dash vents were full open. First I drove 5 miles at 40ish with the AC button on and both side'* temps turned down to the lowest, 60F. Only cold on the passenger side. Then I turned off the AC button and the same results. Then with the AC button still off I set both sides to full hot, 90F, and got similar heat out of both sides. So the hot heat "readings" by hand are the same with the AC button off, but totally different on coldest. I guess I didn't exactly follow your directions but I think you'll be able to draw a conclusion.

Yesterday I started to wonder if there was something just on the dash console controls that was causing no cold on the driver. Fiddling with everything I did find a button I'd never noticed or used before, the AC. I'd always just set temps and venting and got the heat and cold I wanted. What'* that AC button do to change anything?

I'm going to have the shop do whatever they do to check for leaks, and if there is a leak, fix it and then recharge the freon.

Yes, I'm aware and worried about mildew under the rug, but hadn't known about the possible electrical problems, so I'll have the shop guys check that too. I'm not only ignorant about cars but also unable to do physical work. I'm lucky make it in and out of the seat...
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Old 08-30-2014, 02:49 PM   #5
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Don't go by hand, stick a themometer("borrow" the wife'* meat thermometer, in the registers to compare temps......If you have an AC button, then keep it off......do not use AC at all because you can have residual cooling from the evap.......so start your car, have the ac off, and get the car up to normal operating temp on the highway...use your mode switch to force air out of the registers in the dash....now command full hot....should get 140-150F.......now go full cold........should be close to ambient air, both sides.......
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech II View Post
Don't go by hand, stick a themometer("borrow" the wife'* meat thermometer, in the registers to compare temps.....
We've had one long ago, guess it might be time for another.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech II View Post
If you have an AC button, then keep it off......do not use AC at all because you can have residual cooling from the evap.......so start your car, have the ac off, and get the car up to normal operating temp on the highway...use your mode switch to force air out of the registers in the dash....now command full hot....should get 140-150F.......now go full cold........should be close to ambient air, both sides.......
I do follow this and will do after I get the thermometer. Except, I don't get "close to ambient air, both sides" - I mean shouldn't full cold be colder than ambient? Anyway, you mean if both sides aren't then the same under full cold I probably need a leak test/fix and recharge?

Also, after this is all fixed I should go to using the AC button?
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Old 08-31-2014, 04:42 PM   #7
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OK, here'* the new meat thermometer report. Drove 10 miles at 55, blew out all vents, no AC button. It was 84F outside and on the console display. I left the probe in on both sides for maybe 3 minutes each.

FULL HOT: 149 ON BOTH SIDES

FULL COLD: 59 ON PASSENGER, 84 ON DRIVER (same as outside)

What does this suggest?
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:52 AM   #8
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An actuator or temp door(not getting full movement) problem.....


To determine this, remove the actuator and manually move the door to see if you can get the temp to drop....
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech II View Post
An actuator or temp door(not getting full movement) problem.....
Thanks, I'll print this recent thread stuff and take it to the shop. I guess I'll see if the mechanic will be willing to hear (read?) someone else'* opinion.

I'm also still thinking it would be worth pulling the fuse (WHERE is it?) or the battery to see if it'* a glitch that can be solved by a reset to default. Like a computer reboot...
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Old 09-01-2014, 01:04 PM   #10
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It couldn't hurt to remove the HVAC fuse, wait, then put it back to let the actuator recalibrate, if not the actuator, it may be a blend door, but I don't know a lot about AC systems..

Read this somewhere.
I think you need to have the temp set to the middle between hot/cold.
You can look at your fuses under the hood, and see if you can find the 10 AMP fuse that says HVAC/ECAS, if you cannot find it you could pull the battery cable for a minute, I'd try to find the fuse first.

""Remove the HVAC/ECAS fuse for a minimum of 10 seconds.
Install the HVAC/ECAS fuse.
Start the vehicle.
Wait 40 seconds for the HVAC control module to self-calibrate. ""


""While waiting DO NOT TOUCH the a/c controls.

Let the engine run for 1-4 minutes.

Turn the ignition off for at least 10 seconds but no more than 30 seconds.

Restart the engine and then test the a/c controls.""
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