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Everything Electrical & ElectronicHave an electrical problem? Lighting, Alternators, gauges, DIC, HUD, etc? Post it here. Please post Audio problems in the Audio forum, and Engine control problems in the appropriate Mechanical forum for your year.
I e-mailed them, I'll find out.
And yea I want my motor to just look clean, no need for bling...
Heard back from them, they can get me 200A ones in any finish, they have a 300A but it says SPL Competition, so Sound Pressure Level Comps, people with a lot more watts than me, lol
Also the 300A says Not For Street Use....
The 300A one also has a bit smaller pulley, I guess to let it deliver more amps at lower RPM...I want more than 115/120 A at idle though, as sometimes on break I like to sit in the parking lot and blast a song or two, lol
The 200A ones don't give the full amp rating at 1,200 RPM'* like the other alternator at powerbastards...
Originally Posted by CathedralCub
I thought I saw ground going across a motor mount in my car. Next time I'm out there I'll try to remember and look.
Yeah I am pretty sure the CS-144 is not used in my car, unless you can get on with a "GM Siide Mount" option...
Here is one that fits.. 240 Amp max -- 135 idle $400.00 https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/cat...Fcategory%3D75
I wonder what the underdrive power pulleys do? Prob makes it spin faster, I wonder if it still fits with that kind of pulley without modding anything..
Or this one would be perfect, it would make enough power to keep the batt charged at idle for sure..
That calculator said I am at 179A, this one will do 180A at idle https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=496
510.00 though, holy sheet.... I'd have to blow a weeks pay, lol
Last edited by Soft Ride; Jan 28, 2021 at 02:30 AM.
I know my QP J mount had a bit smaller diameter pulley which assisted the amp/idle department, considering The PA idles real low.
I'm not sure of your mount, or under drive, but they can tell you about it & how it improves the idle performance.
BTW all alternators suffer a bit once they got hot. I'm not sure how much that effects performance.
If you ask them about that, they will have an explanation I'm sure.
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It is a GM Side Mount, I am sure of it, looks exactly the same..
I'll do the big 3 upgrade and see how my setup performs afterwards, I have a 1.5 farad capacitor to provide a little extra power, and keep it clean of any interferences..
I may not need the alternator, or I may just be able to step it up a little..
I plan to keep checking to see how the batt'* voltage holds up, and see that it always keeps a 100% charge.
I 'll also keep check on it once I add the 300W amplifier for my 6x9'*....
I'll get to that soon, just being as cold as it has been lately has kept me from wanting to be outside working on anything, lol
And she is mine, will be here in a few days...
I calculated the min and max AMP draw from my cars 2 AMPS and I got 63A-125A Avg/Max, that does not include anything else the car is powering...
Now to pull a little overtime so that 400.00 does not hurt as much, and to spend like 40$ and get some 1AWG for the BIG 3 upgrade...
My batt shall go dead no more, ha ha ha ha ha
250A High Output Alternator for Pontiac Grand Prix, 2006 - 2008 3.8L V6 (231c.i.)
Thanks, and yeah it should do the trick, deff with the Big 3 upgrade..
I think idle is like 700, mine looks close to 800, I'd have to check my scan tool..
Either way barely cruising should be around 1,200 or higher, so with this I should be good to go, if not then I'll have enough alternator for a second battery..
Well I decided to start the Big 3 upgrade, I was looking around while working on the car, and I found my other ground.
So I can see where the second ground, as well as the reg batt ground.
I see the path the hot wire takes to get to the alternator, I may run a shorter path..
I see a second hot coming from the batt that runs to the fuse box above the battery, I am not sure if that should be upgraded also, although I do not see how it would hurt...
I have 25' of 1AWG coming now, I am replacing my 4 AWG run to the back with a 1 AWG, it will run to a 250A Intelligent Dual Battery Isolator..
I'll run my 4 AWG from that to both AMPS in the back...
Just need to figure out how I am going to mount this second AGM battery I bought, it is a DieHard Platinum AGM, I guess I could mount a batt tray in the trunk, and mount it to that..
This isolator will only let the second battery feed my AMPS, and the alternator will still be able to charge both.
It saves my starting batt for just that, starting and main accessories,,
If the starting batt goes dead, I push an emergency button and can crank from the trunk battery...
I think I'll get a few more feet of the AWG 1 and use that to run to my grounds, and the batt to alternator..
Second Garound Hot wire to fuse box First batt to ground