I'd take it to the dealer, tell them you want a default load based on the above, without the anti-theft system, and with the correct gear ratio. Ask first before driving it all the way over there, but they should be able to do that. If the motorhome originally had the 8.1 and Allison then they might be able to build the config from the motorhome'* VIN .

so small update today .

got the new fuel injectors today and they seemed to help ... its running better
the fuel test gauge i have installed on the top of the fuel rail no longer has a heart beat of 3psi where the misfire was
so i did have a injector that was giving me a hard time OR there is still air in the top of the fuel rail playing as a buffer but it reads at all times now 60 to 59 psi
the motor sounds much better and the exhaust smells seems to be better as well and not as much smoke
at idle there is still the misfire but its not as bad and you cant feel it as much but add some RPM and it goes away and all fuel trims go 0 or +2 . still -4 on LTFT at idle so that looks good
after setting down for many hrs of how to under stand spark plug waveform it seems i am having a low fuel misfire where its still firing and would not show code but the fuel is used up to fast
its the only thing that seems to mach the scope readings . tune on PCM maybe trying to pull fuel back to much

when the new coils come in i well pull out the plugs to see if 1 is fouled out
the RV needs LP as well so this weekend if i can i well take it for a new test drive on the new motor to see if the tapping sound comes back and if every thing else is fixed
i need to get it up to driving speed to help all the fuel mapping in the PCM

O yeah as for the dealer they well not look at it . wish i had a friend that worked at 1 that could help but i do not .
here is some fun back story on the RV
the RV was a diesel pusher and not a GM unit . i got the RV after it had a fire and the motor and trans was removed from the unit and i got the RV as just a body for a project
when i tryed to go back with stock motor the said dealership that makes the chassis was no help . no support at all . was all about making money or did not have time . this really upset me badly over a few months of trying to work with them
giving my lifes work was making parade floats for a living and projects is all i did every day i installed my own power plant into the RV . yes i work with DOT/DMV to make sure every thing was in line as all my past work had to drive down the road
So i copied the workhorse chassis r26 UFO and made the RV in to a gas pusher . fun making a fly by wire gas pedal 40 feet away from the motor . the UFO had a gear ratio of 6 and 7 some thing over the years or i would have just used 1 of there vins for the PCM
but as soon as i walk into a dealer and tell them what i have they send me on my way LOL at me and think i am just a kid and every thing is ducked tapped together but every thing is stock parts even down to the wiring . i used all GM parts pins auto high temp wire so alot of stuff you cant tell its home made . but in the end that maybe whats getting me is some small err i made some where

Good to hear it'* getting better.

We've got some dealers around here that would do it.

Your aftermarket PCM programmer guy should be able to as well.

yeah i was going to talk to him but i wanted to get alot of the > did you try this first < stuff out of the way .
he is some where in NY so maybe just take a RV trip to him and let him look at it

That'* a good idea.

good news on the test drive today .

no matter what i tried i could not get the knocking sound to come back
so the sound that started all this is no longer there
the motor sounds good at all RPMs and lots of power

the only thing left is the hard core misfire i have
you can really hear it at idle lopping along

new coils have not come in so i hope when they do it well fix the miss fire

Wow that'* good news!

ok got some more info to help with this ..

its hard to know what the motor is doing when its 35 feet away from the drive down in a hole under a bed
so installed new coils and pulled all plugs and all show there firing like they should be
did a compression test and all show lower then before reman but there all 150 psi to 145 so i hope they come back to the 180s after some good run in time

Here is the new thing tho . today when testing i had a friend stand at the exhaust at startup and warm up . sounds good even the misfire seems to be gone at this time .but to get it to warm up faster i run the PRM at 1500 or so for a few mins to get to temp
As soon as temp gets to the 180s or so for the fuel system to go in to closed loop as soon as the fuel system takes over he can hear a change in the exhaust at 1500 and the exhaust smells gets bad and the looping idle comes back and what could be what i think is a misfire but its not

if you remember all this started after i installed a new exhaust pipes and moved the old O2 sensors over to the new pipes
the knocking sound and the what i think was a misfire started then .
with the exhaust getting so hot from fuel being dumped into the system that i have all way had in the back of my mind hurt the o2 in some way?

SO 1 of 3 things ?
1 i do have a O2 that lags on drive side and LTFT pulls back to -5 ... But is not out of rang
2 bad wire to fuel injector hurt PCM some how But motor run as it should why not at temp and scope show all outputs looks good
3 bad tune in PCM But PCM ran really well for 5 years and 30K miles to just go nuts some how?

i do know i put the wrong part number O2 into the drive side exhaust . i fond that err when looking over my list of part numbers . it still shows it should work but thats the side that lags some in the waveform
so now i am not sure if a new set of o2s would fix this or just order new PCM . so i am going to email the guy with the PCM and see what he thinks

Definitely have all the oxygen sensors be new and the same. I'd get the PCM returned to factory and change the gear ratio.

i had SVT ablation done few days ago . i do not wish that on any where

Supraventricular tachycardia (SVT) ablation is a procedure to create scar tissue within the heart in order to block abnormal electrical signals and restore a normal heart rhythm.
SVT ablation is used to treat heart rhythm problems that affect the heart'* upper chambers and cause an abnormally fast or erratic heartbeat.

so not been moving so fast the last few days
got 2 new oxygen sensors today at 200$ both same part number
they seem to read faster but does not look like the sample waveform i should see . some thing just does not feel right about them
some times they well just lag and set there for 3 to 5s at like .07 volt or move really slow
but the exhaust does not smell as bad
we still have really good fuel control fuel trim still -5 both sides on longs
every test i do shows this thing is running at 100% just does not sound that way

i all so sent a email out to the guy about the PCM . nothing back yet
i all so posted on HPtunes and have a guy giving me a hand he said.... likely have issues with incorrect idle airflow and transient fueling data causing issues ...

made a drive out to a shop that only tunes on cars and told them whats going on and they say look at MAFS again
but they feel the PCM and tune is good . so 1 of them may come take a look at it for me
this weekend i am going to do some more testing like see what it does when i unplug the temp sending unit to go in and out of closed loop to see

yeah i am not sure if i said this before but there was some thing else i found wrong i did ! this has some back story
this was my err . 5 years ago when i got the motor it was a 2002 setup PCM with newer cam sensor but the temp sending unit was the older 3 wire setup
this unit was not made well so its just push pins inside the unit and when i pulled on the wiring the motor ran runs. the 2004 unit was a 2 wire setup
but i wired the 3 wire unit up to my PCM and it worked .. or .. well .. any ways my thinking was over how my cooling system is setup where the airpump out line
goes in to the drive side head of the motor as a bypass and that the temp sending unit was reading right and my temp would stay at 160 and some times get up to 180f .
when i would use a out side temp tester the block was up to temp . when i first pulled on this wiring i guess the sending unit was bad so i got a new 1
the new unit showed the right temp of now 190 to 200F so for a very long time my motor i guess was in open loop . in the end when i pulled on this wiring it was moving the bad fuel injector wire
and it would just dump fuel into the system . why i say this is i cant stand by the .. well it ran good for 5 years line any more .. as i really just dont know and
the incorrect idle airflow and transient fueling data causing issues could have been there all this time

i still have the old sending unit so i well test with it and if the motor runs 100% like it did before in open loop then i know every thing is ok and that i can drive the RV to some 1 that can help me get the PCM right

i all so feel i may just need to take the Rv on a 100 mile road trip to see if things just works them self out . i need to run the motor in as it only has 2 hrs of idle time and 20 miles drive time on it