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Old 08-07-2010, 06:36 PM   #1
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Default Couple of problems,

OK, I am going to try to kill two birds with one thread here,,,

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We have a 2000 GP and occasionally the tach wont work, and the trac loc lite comes on. NO codes or CEL from this, any ideas?
There are no running issues to speak of while this is doing it. Just the two symptoms above.

Also, my daughter has a 2000 Impala, I think the suspension is the same on those as the GP,, right? If so, how do you replace the front bushing on the lower control arm? I see no rivets, bolts ect.. and the flange on the new bushing is flat on two sides, (Sort of like an oval race track, over simplified) There is a ton of rust on the control arm, is this something that it would be better to pay for, rather than spend all day messing with it?

Help on either or both of these things is greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-08-2010, 02:23 PM   #2
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Hello? Anyone?
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Old 08-08-2010, 02:46 PM   #3
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We don't have a ton of Chevy knowledge, so member might not be looking in here. Let me see what I can do.

I also posted a quote and link back to this post here:

https://www.gmforum.com/pontiac-168/gp-impala-problem-293877/
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:07 PM   #4
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Wow,, not a very fast moving forum,,,,,
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:22 PM   #5
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Like I said...
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:24 PM   #6
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I see Mouse has put your questions in another part of the forum in an effort to get you challenges resolved.
Is there a metal sleeve through the bushing? I know on other cars control arms the bushing are two pieces. You have to press out the metal sleeve and then remove the two pieces. Install is reverse. I'm not sure if this is the same procedure, just an option. As far as the GP, are there drivability issues when the tach isn't working?
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:43 AM   #7
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Actually Jim this is an extremely fast moving forum. The weekend weather does effect things thought. It'* tough to catch guys like myself or Danthurs on a weekend with good weather. I assume most other forum goer'* are in the same boat.

The tach is one I'm unsure of, as it should run off the crank sensor/ICM typically as a white wire.

On the control arms, the GP and Imp are the same suspension parts for the most part. The bushings on the Gp are probably a higher durometer material to stiffen it up. The easiest way to swap those bushings is to replace the control arms. It is possible to press new ones in, but I hear it is very difficult with the press and not worth the effort vs changing the control arm.
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Old 08-09-2010, 01:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
Actually Jim this is an extremely fast moving forum. The weekend weather does effect things thought. It'* tough to catch guys like myself or Danthurs on a weekend with good weather. I assume most other forum goer'* are in the same boat.

The tach is one I'm unsure of, as it should run off the crank sensor/ICM typically as a white wire.

On the control arms, the GP and Imp are the same suspension parts for the most part. The bushings on the Gp are probably a higher durometer material to stiffen it up. The easiest way to swap those bushings is to replace the control arms. It is possible to press new ones in, but I hear it is very difficult with the press and not worth the effort vs changing the control arm.
I've had the same experiences with a buddy'* car and control arm bushings. You may be able to get them pressed out and the new ones pressed in at a shop or at a Napa auto parts. You'd have to talk to them, as I'm sure it wouldn't be the first time. Otherwise, its a control arm replacement.
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Old 08-09-2010, 02:45 PM   #9
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I look at it like a CV joint. To redo a boot you are usually looking at a $30-$40 boot kit and getting all greasy. Meanwhile a new axle is $60
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Old 08-09-2010, 02:50 PM   #10
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I'd like to mention that this would be a great time to look into a control arm that comes with polyurethane bushings. Very big difference.
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