Chevy 3.4L Overheats
#1
Chevy 3.4L Overheats
Hello. Im from Poland, so sorry for my english. In Poland No one helped me.
My Chevy Trans Sport 3.4L V6 overheating. Reaches 110C and kick coolant cup. I installed a computer controlling the fans and it did not help.
PLS HELP.
My Chevy Trans Sport 3.4L V6 overheating. Reaches 110C and kick coolant cup. I installed a computer controlling the fans and it did not help.
PLS HELP.
#2
Senior Member
Have you been losing coolant? Usual culprits are the intake gaskets, head gasket(*), water pump, radiator, hoses, heater core, etc.
With the engine cold, and not running, remove the radiator cap, and check the level in the radiator, and also the reservoir....radiator full to the top, and reservoir full to the "cold line"?
If you have been adding coolant, you either have an external leak, or an internal leak......you will need a coolant pressure tester....top off the coolant, install rad cap, and run engine to normal operating temp(190F).....shut off engine...LET ENGINE COOL DOWN A BIT....SAFELY remove the radiator cap, and attach the coolant pressure tester and pressurize.....look for external leaks...if none found, leave pressurized overnight.... next day, if you still see no external leak, remove all spark plugs....go to the passenger side of the ICM, ignition control module, and remove the two wire connector on the passenger side of the ICM(the coils sit on top of the ICM).....now have someone crank the engine over, and watch for any coolant coming out of the spark plug holes....if coolant comes out, it'* a head gasket/head problem.....the one to watch for is #1 cylinder, it'* the one on the passenger side on the back of the engine....
powodzenia!
With the engine cold, and not running, remove the radiator cap, and check the level in the radiator, and also the reservoir....radiator full to the top, and reservoir full to the "cold line"?
If you have been adding coolant, you either have an external leak, or an internal leak......you will need a coolant pressure tester....top off the coolant, install rad cap, and run engine to normal operating temp(190F).....shut off engine...LET ENGINE COOL DOWN A BIT....SAFELY remove the radiator cap, and attach the coolant pressure tester and pressurize.....look for external leaks...if none found, leave pressurized overnight.... next day, if you still see no external leak, remove all spark plugs....go to the passenger side of the ICM, ignition control module, and remove the two wire connector on the passenger side of the ICM(the coils sit on top of the ICM).....now have someone crank the engine over, and watch for any coolant coming out of the spark plug holes....if coolant comes out, it'* a head gasket/head problem.....the one to watch for is #1 cylinder, it'* the one on the passenger side on the back of the engine....
powodzenia!
#5
Senior Member
Any time you lose coolant, you "create" an air pocket in the engine, preventing flow of the coolant, which causes it to overheat......
Your engine is famous for lower intake, and head gasket leaks.....can only hope your problem is an external one, and not one of the first two....
Your engine is famous for lower intake, and head gasket leaks.....can only hope your problem is an external one, and not one of the first two....
#7
Hello! I dont buy tester becouse he was too expensive. I drove to my mechanic. He did not notice any leaks. He said it was the head gasket after hard hoses of the cooling system.
I already bought seals, They will come in two weeks to Poland. So i will start to do in two weeks. But before i start can You tell me with what power (Nm, lb/ft... no matter) i must tighten bolts head?
I already bought seals, They will come in two weeks to Poland. So i will start to do in two weeks. But before i start can You tell me with what power (Nm, lb/ft... no matter) i must tighten bolts head?
#9
Senior Member
I looked it up and came up with the same spec......I remember doing head bolts, the torque spec, and then a quarter turn, or 90 degrees( I use to take a pencil, and make a vertical mark at 12 o'clock on top of the bolt, then I would do the final turn until the mark was level at 3 0'clock)....must be an updated spec for that extra 5 degrees.......is 5 degrees that critical? Meh....:
I used this for the more exotic angles
I used this for the more exotic angles