coolant should not be able to get out, seems like a leak. that shouldnt have anything to do with stalling though. if you have a live data tool, you can watch for rpm, on my yukon thats the output from ckp you can see if it does something weird before it stalls. for the icm you can carefully heat it with a heat gun and see if it quits. dont get the wires and dont melt the plastic. you check for spark and fuel pressure when its dead?

its got spark and pressure when its dead. slight problem though. first let me ask a dumb question. is it right or left hand thread? assuming its right hand thread, that thing will not come off. i put the wrench on with a cheater pipe on the ground near the driver wheel tried to crank it and it damn near lifted the wheel off the ground.

i dont wanna heat it because im pretty sure the other side is made of rubber, and i dont think heating the bolt would accomplish anything other than make my job harder. any ideas? ive got a giant electric impact and it wont even touch it. thanks alot!

what bolt are you talking about?

the main harmonic balancer bolt in the center

That bolt is lefty loosy, righty tighty.

well, its fixed. a whole lot of cussing and a 24v jump box later anyways. dunno if the problem is question is fixed cause its got expired tags and i dont need a ticket, but it idled like a champ for a good 30 mins, and handled a brakestand just fine. lol.

was it the crank sensor?

seems that way. i wont know for sure untill i can take it for a test ride, but like i said its got expired tags.

I didn't see anything

update: issue is solved. car nolonger stalls and wont start. codes were crank sensor and random missfire. cleared em and they havent come back.

new problem though. she said the car seems to be chugging under load. she poured an entire can of seafoam in the tank and it hasnt solved anything. seeing as there were no lean codes and the random miss has not reset, do y'all have any ideas? they wont rent me a fuel pressure gauge anywhere so that is out of the question.